Q. I am looking for information about Clorox brand products that can be used to disinfect laundry in a medical facility. The laundry consists of colored fabric but could have blood/body fluids in the fibers. I need to know the options for properly disinfecting these items without removing color.

A. I get this type of question a lot, especially for disinfecting colored fabric – and I do not know of a product for disinfecting colored clothes.

For your white and bleachable light colors, it's pretty straight-forward. Simply wash in hot water using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

Unfortunately, there currently is NOT a Clorox product for disinfecting colored clothes. Our Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster for colors contains hydrogen peroxide as its active ingredient. It is a much weaker bleach than the sodium hypochlorite found in Clorox® Regular-Bleach and is not capable of meeting EPA disinfecting requirements.

Dealing with blood stains usually requires a separate treatment like presoaking in cool water using a good enzyme-containing laundry detergent product before washing. If the stain is not totally removed, washing in hot water will usually set the remaining stain.

As I have written previously, the best way to reduce germ counts in (colored) laundry are:
• Use the hottest wash water recommended on the care label (you might also do more than one wash on these items to further reduce the bacteria count).
• Consider washing the items of concern separately so that the germs are NOT spread to more items – transfer can occur in the washer and when transferring/handling items from the washer to the dryer
• Use the hottest dryer setting recommended on the care label, and dry the items separately to maximize germ reduction. While the dryer isn't capable of killing all the bacteria, it will help lower the germ count.
• Finally, to prevent further germ spread, I would do a white load using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach after these items have been washed. It works as a kind of mouthwash for your washer.
Also, check the colored items for Bleachability. It's surprising how many things labeled as Do Not Bleach are actually OK to use liquid bleach on. Do the quick Bleachability/colorfast Test on a hidden part of the colored item (Add 2 tspn liquid Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden color section area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel). No color change means it is safe to use liquid bleach on the item. You can see this demonstrated on my new “Laundry 101” videos, which can be found on the toolbar to the left, or by clicking this link – http://www.drlaundryblog.com/?page_id=240.

Q. I am trying to get a chili stain out of the cuff of a cotton shirt. It has narrow red and green pin stripes on a white background. Unfortunately, I did not notice the stain until about week after it happened.

My wife and I have tried scrubbing the stain with a brush and Shout Action Gel Advanced for set in stains, Regular Shout, vinegar, lemon juice, Goo Gone, and a paste of baking soda to no avail. I should add that we washed the shirt in COLD water after treating and only dried it once after the first washing. We have not used Clorox Bleach (yet) because we did not know what effect it might have on the colored pin stripes.

Do you have any suggestions, or is it just a "lost cause" because of the time that has elapsed?

A. Sounds like you have done a lot of correct things in trying to remove the chili stain, but need to kick the stain remover power up a couple of notches. It would have been useful to know if the shirt is 100% cotton or a poly/cotton blend, as I am also concerned about how the red/green stripes might hold up to liquid bleach.

To find out if the colors can safely be bleached, I recommend consumers do the quick Bleachability Test: Add 2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden area like an inside seam; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel. No color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item.

If the stripes are bleachable, I would consider using Clorox® Bleach Pen gel since it has 2 tips to control where and how much bleach is applied. Use the scrubber tip to rub the product, wait 3-5 minutes, then wash the item immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label.
If the stripes are NOT bleachable, then I would try Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster, our color-safe oxygen bleach. Rub it into the stain, wait 3-5 minutes, then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox2.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
I am taking the next week-plus off, so I wanted to personally express my thanks for your helping to make the Dr. Laundry blog a sought out resource for laundry questions and answers.

Here’s wishing everyone a wonderful Holiday Season. With all the bad news and hard times, it’s especially important that we pause, take a deep breath and celebrate this time with our families and loved ones. Maybe it won’t be as elaborate as in years past, but everyone should be thankful for what we have, the families around us and be hopeful that the future will again provide us with the opportunities to move ahead.

So if there are some stains in your future, in this and the next post I’ve left some tips for dealing with the spills and splatters that come with the season’s eating and partying.

GRAVY IS…
A complex stain with grease, starch and colorant that requires lots of quick attention.
1. Scrape off excess gravy with a dull knife; blot gently with a paper or cloth towel; cover with cornstarch to help absorb the grease; brush off

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Pretreat with a good liquid detergent; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes
2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Pretreat with a good liquid laundry detergent; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes
2. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying the item.

CRANBERRY SAUCE and POMEGRANATE JUICE ARE…
Festive fruits, but these stains have an intense color with skins, seeds and sugars to be concerned about.
1. Rinse the stained area with cold water. Do not use bar soap as it may set the stain.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Apply Clorox® Bleach Pen™ Gel to the stained area for 3-5 minutes immediately before laundering.
2. Wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Then apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes.
2. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2®.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat steps above prior to drying the item.

CHOCOLATE/HOT CHOCOLATE HAS…
Fine particles, oil and milk proteins can make this a difficult stain to remove.
1. Pretreat the stain with a good liquid detergent, then soak fabric in cool water and liquid detergent for about 30 minutes to help loosen the protein part of the stain.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Rub chocolate stain gently with Clorox Bleach Pen Gel immediately before laundering; wait 3-5 minutes
2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster and rub into the stain. Wash immediately in the wamest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, soak and repeat steps above prior to drying the item.

RED WINE’s…
Tannins help make great wines, but really add difficulty to the removal of wine stains.
1. Quickly blot up excess red wine with a paper towel or cloth Pour Club Soda on the back of the stain to help bubble the wine off the fabric; then blot away excess. Do NOT use bar soap, as it may set this stain.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Rub stain gently with Clorox® Bleach Pen Gel immediately before laundering
2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes. Wash immediately in warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying item

Continuing with my Holiday Stain solutions …..

COFFEE MAY HAVE A GREAT AROMA, BUT COFFEE STAINS HAVE…
Extra cream and sugar that make it a complex stain to successfully treat.
1. Do not use bar soap as it may set the stain and make it much more difficult to remove.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Pre-soak the item in a solution of ¼ cup Clorox® Regular Bleach per gallon of cold water. Submerge the garment and soak for 5 minutes
2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes. Wash immediately in warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying the item.

PUMPKIN PIE IS A HOLIDAY FAVORITE, BUT THIS STAIN HAS…
Lots of dairy products and sugars, which complicate the removal process.
1. Fresh stain should be quickly rinsed and soaked in cool water with a good liquid detergent for at least 30 minutes.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Afterward, wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2®.
Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying the item.

EGGNOG HAS…
Lots of dairy products, eggs and sugars, which makes eggnog stains complex to get out.
1. Blot away excess. Submerge and pre-soak the item in cool water using a good liquid detergent for about 30 minutes to help soften and loosen the stain. Eggnog is a protein-based stain, and using hot water will “cook” the stain into the fabric fibers.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster; rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes. Wash immediately in warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2®.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying the item.
SOUP MAY PROVIDE…
Comfort on cold days, but it can be a really difficult stain to get out.
1. Blot off excess, and pre-treat quickly with a good liquid detergent; rub into the stain; wait 3- 5 minutes.

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox Regular-Bleach.

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster and rub into stain. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2®.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying the item.
LIPSTICK MAY…
Make you look good, but get it on your clothes and that’s when the real fun begins.
1. Lipstick is a combination stain of an oil and dye. Treat the oil portion of the stain first.
2. Pre-treat the stain with liquid dish washing detergent on a damp cloth. From the back of the item, push the liquid through the stain to help separate it from the fabric. Remember to dab, not rub, as rubbing can force the stain into the fibers
3. While pushing the stain from the back of the fabric, put a dry cloth under the front of the item and continue to blot the lipstick away from the fabric. Keep changing to a clean part of dry towel to prevent re-staining the item

FROM HERE, IF YOUR STAINED ITEM IS WHITE:
1. Wash immediately after in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular Bleach

IF YOUR STAINED ITEM HAS COLOR:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster and rub into stain. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2®.

Finally, inspect the item. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above prior to drying the item.

Q. Pale green areas have appeared on my white laundry and they won't go away! I use a standard liquid detergent with Clorox Ultimate Care bleach. As the water is running into my traditional washing machine, I pour the bleach into the dispenser, add the detergent and then the clothes. The green areas don't appear on all the whites and not all over, just big spots. We recently moved to a house that uses well water − --could that be it? And more importantly, can I remove the stains? So far they have appeared on some sheets, a blanket, and a shirt, all which are 100% cotton.

A. My best guess would be that indeed the metals dissolved in either the well water or from a reaction between your pipes and the bleach (sodium hypochlorite active) ended up depositing on the different items in spots.

Your best chance at removal is probably using a rust remover product. Summit Instant Rust Out and Whink Rust Remover are two such products. These can usually be found in Home Depot/Lowe’s or hardware stores. A word of caution − --ALWAYS read the label directions and pretest the products as they should only be used on whites/colorfast colors (check on hidden color area before using).

Also, you might consider a good water softening/treatment system since this problem could also manifest itself in other cleaning areas. Until this is corrected, I would consider refraining from liquid bleach usage to see if the problem disappears. This would tend to confirm my guess regarding the bleach. If the problem continues, then we need to do some more detective work.

Q. I have been using every Clorox product known to man to try to clean the grout in my shower. It has helped to some extent, but is not getting all the mildew (and I have even used straight Clorox and scrubbed it with a grout brush). After rinsing the tile with water (but probably not enough to remove all the bleach), will it be OK to use hydrogen peroxide on the grout? I know you can’t mix Clorox with ammonia or anything acidic but am not sure about hydrogen peroxide.

A. Sorry about the mildew problem, and I know how frustrating it can be trying to get it under control. I wonder if you have tried our Tilex line? (http://www.tilex.com) With your difficult problem, they may be worth considering.

It may be surprising, but using Clorox® Regular-Bleach full-strength is probably less effective than using these products. The Tilex products have special surfactants that help hold the bleach solution on the problem and aid in penetrating into the grout.

As for your last question, yes, it is OK to rinse with hydrogen peroxide after use. (Though, I would consider diluting it slightly.) The reaction between hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochlorite, the bleach’s active ingredient, will produce oxygen unlike other products (ammonia and acids) which can produce toxic materials.

Q. I washed some off-white 90% cotton blend towels by themselves with bleach and Trader Joe's Detergent. They came out with a blue cast to the base, and are almost black below the loops. Why did this happen, and is there anything I can do to correct it?

A. This is somewhat puzzling. I suspect that the towel is probably made of cotton loops and a synthetic base so that the absorbent cotton can do its job.

Curious if you had ever bleached the towels before without this problem occurring? If so, what was different this time (the products, the temperature, etc.)?

What may have happened is the different fibers may have different brighteners applied during their production. Brighteners are used to enhance the white appearance of an item. The synthetic brighteners may have reacted with the bleach and changed to a blue/purple color. I'm not sure if this is reversible or not. You might try a quick wash in diluted vinegar to see if the pH change will switch the color back. If not, then I'm afraid it's a done deal.

Q. Does Clorox disinfect laundry as well in cold water as it does in hot? I cannot use Clorox in hot water as my laundry turns brown if I do. I am, therefore, forced to use cold water for things I want to bleach.

A. I can easily answer your first question: YES, Clorox® Regular-Bleach will disinfect laundry in hot, warm, or cold water.

A couple of follow-up points:
• Remember, as you drop the wash temperature the cleaning performance of the detergent is reduced. So use the recommended amount of all laundry products, don't overpack the washer, and run shorter wash cycle times. All these things can lead to further reductions in cleaning.
• What is causing the browning in hot water? Is there rust in your water heater or incoming water supply? If so, you probably should get that corrected as it can negatively affect a lot of other cleaning situations in your home.

Q. I purchased a set of 100% Italian cotton sheets that are very yellow. I want to make them as pale cream as possible. Should I use Clorox with hot or cold water?

A. Not sure that I have enough info to properly answer your question. It depends on what types of dyes were used to produce the yellow coloring. Some dyes are much more reactive with liquid bleach than others.

I would recommend doing this quick, simple Bleachability Test on any colored portion on a hidden part of the sheets, like a seam:
Add 2 tspn. liquid Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden color section area like an inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute, then blot with towel and air dry. No color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item.
If there is color change this will help you gauge how much and what color you will attain if you choose to continue. You may not be able to get the "pale cream" color you desire with this approach.

If you choose to proceed, I would do a separate, warm wash with detergent using a milder than recommended amount of bleach (~1/2 cup) with only the sheets to minimize any dye transfer potential.

Q. I had a plant sitting on my linoleum floor. Water percolated thru the dirt and onto the floor leaving a stain. Can I remove it using Clorox?

A. While not a floor specialist, here's my opinion/approach:

This could be a tough one if the plant/water have been in contact with the flooring for an extended period. You may have penetrated the surface coating and the stain may reside under that layer. A couple of things to try:
• Try a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution on a test spot to see if it can "bleach" out the stain. If successful, start at the outside and work to the inside of the stain. Rinse well after treatment.
• If the peroxide is not strong enough, test a diluted liquid bleach (1 tbsp/gal) solution.
o Place a drop on the stain; wait 1-2 minutes; blot the area and allow to air dry − no color change means you can try it on a larger area.
• If these fail, you probably will need a rug or something to cover the spot.