Q. I washed a sweatshirt and it bled into another one. What can I do to fix this?

A. I probably don't have very good news for you, since I'm assuming the sweatshirts aren't white and they probably have been dried in the dryer, which sets the dye on the new fabric. Cotton sweatshirts tend to lose a little (to a lot) of dye with each regular wash, which is why we always recommend washing dark colors separately.

I also find that a lot of non-cotton colored items can be bleached. To find out if these items can safely be bleached, I recommend consumers do the quick Bleachability Test (2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel); no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Check out the Laundry 101 video on my blog (http://www.drlaundryblog.com/) for a demonstration of the test.

Want to proceed? I would do a quick liquid bleach soak (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in gallon of cool water for 5 minutes), then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the garments’ care labels using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. It might require multiple treatments to get the desired result.

If you can't bleach them, then try several washes in the hottest water recommended on the care labels using detergent and an oxygen bleach like our Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster, or even a short 1/2 hour presoak in the oxygen bleach before the wash. Check for suitability by doing a similar Bleachability Test as described above. It might require multiple treatments to get the desired result. Also, repeated washing usually will very slowly remove a small amount of dye each time. However, it’s likely that the sweatshirts will probably continue to bleed with a water wash, and there will be nothing you can do to restore them.

Q. I bought a large container of Clorox® Plus® Bleach at Home Depot. It has Germicidal Bleach on the front label. The only direction for use is for surface cleaning, etc. Can I use this bleach on my clothes like Clorox Regular Bleach?

A. The short answer to your inquiry is YES. You can use the Germicidal Bleach for laundry in the same way and amount as you would with Clorox® Regular-Bleach. This bleach version is aimed at household uses, thus the emphasis on the various surfaces. Check out my blog (http://www.drlaundryblog.com) and view the "How to Use Bleach" video for more details.

Q. I just finished soaking my daughter's 33-year-old polyester communion dress in Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster for 8 hours and then laundering it to eliminate dinginess. It hasn't changed much, if at all. Is there any point in repeating the process? Any other suggestions? I'm afraid to use dishwasher detergent on it as many people online suggest.

A. You didn't indicate if this communion dress is white or light colored. I'm not sure what "dinginess" you might be trying to remove, spots or overall. The polyester should allow you to be a little more aggressive in your cleaning approach.

Since you already tried an extended presoak with Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster, I wonder if the subsequent wash was hot, as that would be the only additional step that might have helped improve the cleaning. Doing another similar presoak most likely would not change your results. If so, you probably will need to kick your approach up a notch, and consider using liquid bleach.

I also find that a lot of colored items can be bleached. To find out if these items can safely be bleached, I recommend consumers do the quick Bleachability Test (2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel); no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Check out the Laundry 101 video on my blog (http://www.drlaundryblog.com/) for a demonstration of the test.

Want to proceed? I would also consider doing a quick liquid bleach soak (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in a gallon of cool water for 5 minutes), then washing the item immediately in the hottest water recommended on the garment’s care label using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. To complete the treatment, consider air drying.

As temperatures rise, there’s no better time to unearth all your favorite spring and summer fashions that have been hibernating in the back of your closet. But first, you need to make room by cleaning and storing what’s already in there! Here are several tips for getting your clothing in shape for the warmer months ahead:

1. The Great Divide. Begin by sorting garments into separate piles: those for fall/winter, and those for spring/summer. Also, take the opportunity to decide which items can be folded, and which need to be put away on hangers. Delicate items such as pressed shirts, linen and rayon garments, and 100 percent cotton blouses and dresses, should always be hung. To avoid stretching and puckering at the shoulders, invest in some quality wooden hangers and avoid the wire variety. Placing felt between the clips on skirt/pant hangers will prevent marking, as well.

2. To Donate or Not to Donate. If you didn’t wear the garment last year, chances are you’re not going to wear it this season. Let someone else enjoy it by donating it to a local homeless shelter. Clothing swaps are also a growing trend. Check with friends to see if they would be interested in trading their unwanted clothing for “new” items.

3. Store It Right. When storing your fall/winter items, try to avoid problems related to stains, insects and moisture. First, make sure garments have been cleaned or dry cleaned. Place in well-sealed plastic storage containers or, if none are available, sealed plastic bags can work just as well. Store in a cool, well ventilated location like an interior closet away from heat and light. Also, consider using cedar hangers or blocks to naturally repel pests.

4. Got Stains? Spring calls for fresh, clean clothes – and the cleanest whites call for Clorox® Regular-Bleach. At the beginning of winter, you may have tossed items into the back of your closet without checking thoroughly for stains. If you find a stain, conduct a simple “bleachability” test to see if its colorfast, which is also demonstrated in my “Laundry 101” video

Bleachability Test:
1. Dilute 2 teaspoons Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water
2. Apply a drop on a hidden colored area like inside seam, hemline or cuff
3. Wait 1 minute and then blot with towel
4. No color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item

Even if the garment’s care label warns against using bleach, try conducting the test first – many clothing manufacturers under-label their clothing in order to avoid legal issues and a number of colored items can safely be bleached. If the item can be bleached, simply wash it in the warmest water recommended on the care label, with detergent and ¾ cup of Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

Remember: detergent alone is simply not enough to truly clean your whites, and in fact it can leave behind stains, dirt and unseen ‘body soil’ made up of body oils, dead skin flakes and sweat. Yuck! Bleach is the only laundry product that cleans, whitens and disinfects clothing. Adding it to your laundry will remove more of this gunk than detergent alone, plus it gets rid of odor-causing germs.

As you can see, bleach is a must-have for getting spring and summer clothing ready for the season, and keeping your winter and fall clothes in the best shape possible for another year’s use.

Hope these tips are helpful! And as always, feel free to write if you’ve got any other questions.

Dr. Laundry

Q. My frontload washer recommends cleaning the rubber tubing, as well as the inside of the washer, with chlorine bleach. Is this different from Clorox® Regular-Bleach?

A. The new HE frontloaders are wonderful for saving energy/dollars, but can develop an odor problem from unremoved water that settles in the bottom of the washer. This creates a very desirable environment for the growth of biofilm, odor-causing bacteria and mold/mildew. To combat this, manufacturers recommend doing a "chlorine bleach" rinse, usually at least once a month. They've even added a new cleaning cycle on newer machines. Clorox® Regular-Bleach is”chlorine bleach," which is industry jargon for any bleach containing sodium hypochlorite active. So any Clorox bleach product including our CloroxPlus™ HE Bleach are appropriate for this use.

If you want to save yourself some extra work, you could probably avoid this problem if you do at least one white load a week with detergent and the recommended usage Clorox® Regular-Bleach. I call it "Mouthwash for your HE washer." You will get better cleaning, whitening and stain removal than detergent alone, plus the bleach will eliminate those bacteria, mildew/mold and the biofilm. No "critters,” no need for the extra cycle/cleaning. I would take this approach and then wipe down the rubber seals with a sudsy washcloth, since bleach could react with the rubber seal. Also don't forget to leave the washer door partially open when you finish washing. This allows the interior to dry out.

Everyone including me always gets excited about the Easter Bunny! I thought I’d put up a quick note about how to remove a couple of Easter Bunny-related stains from the outdoor egg hunt and the melted/dripping/dropped chocolate bunny stains.

I LOVE Easter egg hunts (as long as I find the most eggs), but handling grass stains is certainly not any fun. These can be some of the toughest stains to remove, as that juicy green chlorophyll needs to be broken down and decolorized. Here’s what I suggest:

First, test the item to see if it can be bleached try this simple Bleachability Test: Add 2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach to 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden colored area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel. No color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Any color change could also show you the amount of change in color that likely will occur if you proceed with the liquid bleach usage. (You can also see a demo of this on my blog – http://www.drlaundryblog.com – in the video titled “Laundry 101.”)

If the item can be bleached: I would do a good long presoak (at least 30-60 minutes) in warm water with a good enzyme containing powder detergent to loosen any dirt and mud and start breaking down the grass stains. Don't use hot water as this can "cook" the protein portion making removal tougher. Now, if there are just a few spots, try pretreating with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel. Then launder the item immediately in warm water with detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. Check for success before drying, in case additional treatments are necessary to achieve the desired result.

If the item cannot be bleached: Begin by presoaking the items (at least 30-60 minutes) in warm water with a good enzyme containing powder detergent to loosen any dirt and mud and start breaking down the grass stains. Next, apply Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster directly on the stain, and allow it to sit for 3-5 minutes. Now wash in warmest water recommended on the care labels using detergent and Clorox2®. Finally, always check for success before drying. Especially in this case, it might require multiple treatments to get the desired result.

Chocolate bunnies are an Easter favorite, but fine chocolate particles and oils can make chocolate a really stubborn stain to remove. If that rabbit hops out of your hands and onto your shirt, try this approach:

First, test the item to see if it can be bleached try this simple Bleachability Test: Add 2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach to 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden colored area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel. No color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Any color change could also show you the amount of change in color that likely will occur if you proceed with the liquid bleach usage. (You can also see a demo on my blog – http://www.drlaundryblog.com – in the video titled “Laundry 101.”)

First, pretreat the stain with a good liquid detergent (apply, rub in, wait 3-5 minutes).
If your stained item can be bleached:
1. Rub chocolate stain gently with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel immediately before laundering; wait 3-5 minutes
2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox Regular Bleach
3. Inspect the item before placing in the dryer. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above.

If your stained item cannot be bleached:
1. Apply Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster, rub into the stain; wait 3-5 minutes.
2. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox 2.
3. Inspect the item before placing in the dryer. If any stain remains, repeat the steps above.

Q. My boyfriend has a lot of white cotton t-shirts with screen-printed designs on them. They are starting to look pretty dingy, and I am wondering if adding bleach to the wash will have an effect on the printed design?

A. Usually, dingy white cotton t-shirts are a no-brainer for using Clorox® Regular-Bleach. The screen printed design may add a complication. If it is a large patch-type design, these are not going to be affected. Results for printed, inked-on designs may depend on the quality of the ink and the application process.

I would like to find out if these items can safely be bleached. I recommend consumers do the quick Bleachability Test (2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden colored area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel); no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Any color change could also show you the amount of change in color that likely will occur if you proceed with the liquid bleach usage. You can see a demo on my blog (http://www.drlaundryblog.com) in the video titled “Laundry 101.”

Want to proceed? I would do a quick liquid bleach soak (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in a gallon of cool water for 5 minutes), then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the garment’s care label using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

A couple of bonus tips:
• Use the recommended amount of detergent. Consider using a powdered detergent since they will provide better cleaning than liquids. Be sure it is dissolved before you add the clothes to avoid having white specks on the cleaned clothes.
• Don't overload the washer or mix in colored items. The more t-shirt movement in the washer, the better the cleaning, and colors can have dye transfer which deposits on whites, making them appear dingy.
If you can't bleach the t-shirts, then try several washes in the hottest water recommended on the care labels using detergent and an oxygen bleach like our Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster, or even a short 1/2 hour presoak in the oxygen bleach before the wash. Check for success before drying. It might require multiple treatments to get the desired result.

Q. I just purchased an expensive (overpriced) cotton gauze top in lime green. The very first time I wore it, I dripped a dot (about the size of a dime) of melted butter from oysters right in the front. I have tried white vinegar and every stain remover there is (except Oxi Magic). Nothing works! Please help if you know of any miracle solution, other than dying the top black.

A. Let's see if any of the following suggestions are helpful:
At this point, my biggest fear is that you have done a variety of unsuccessful treatments and have probably dried the item in the dryer, which may have set any unremoved grease stain. For best greasy/oily stain removal, NEVER dry the item in a drier as it "remelts" the unremoved oil and forces it further into the fibers, making subsequent removal even more difficult/impossible.
I would try pretreating the stain with either a good liquid dishwasher detergent (e.g. Dawn) or laundry detergent. Apply, rub gently into the stained area, wait 3-5 minutes, then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label.
• Check for success BEFORE drying. It may take a couple of these treatments. Air dry if you think it worked.
• If these tips don't work, then it probably isn't going to be removed. As for the black dye option, it probably won't cover the residual spot.

Q. I would like to know if your Clorox cleaner with bleach would kill C. Diff (Clostridium difficile)? My mother-in-law was diagnosed with C. Diff, and the family wants to know what to use to clean the house. I have read that only bleach will kill the germs. Could you please advise what product to use?

A. Definitely want to get the mother-in-law's house cleaned up. Disinfecting bleach can be used. Preclean any surface, then make a disinfecting solution (3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in a gallon of water). Wash or wipe this solution on all bleachable surfaces, then allow to stand for at least 5 minutes. Rinse and allow to air dry.

Q. I live in Maine, and many times during the winter and early spring I walk
through that messy mixture of slush, mud, salt and road sand that leaves
your clothes covered with splash spots. I just cannot get the stains out of
my beige and khaki pants, no matter what stain treating products I use or
how much I bleach them. What is there that I can use to get the stains out?

A. Since I haven't had to deal with this problem in California, I'll give you some suggestions to try based on similar problems:

It would seem that the removal difficulty should be tied to the type of fiber/color and composition of the slush. My guess is that all the salt should wash out and any remaining problem is probably due to the dirt, mud, and sand. These generally are small, fine particles that can "seep" into porous fibers like cotton and when dried become very difficult to extract. Synthetic fibers like polyester tend to be easier to clean since they are round and don't have open spaces for the particles to get trapped. The lighter the garment color, the more obvious any remaining soil/stain becomes.

So a couple of things you may want to try;
• After exposure and before they dry out, try a presoak using a good powder detergent (add 1/3 cup to a couple of gallons of warm water—and make sure to get all the powder dissolved before adding the clothes. Soak the items for 30 minutes to 1 hour, then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label). Powder detergents have ingredients called builders that are useful in softening water and can help "pull" small particles out of the fibers, thus keeping them suspended so they don't redeposit back onto the clothes. You might also make a paste of the powder and water and rub it into the soiled spot(s) before soaking. Always check a hidden area like cuff or seam with the paste before using to insure it won't damage the color (apply paste; let sit 2-3 minutes; rinse and look for any change in appearance).
• If the items have dried, try re-wetting them with cool water before they are washed. You might try using a soft bristle brush to work in some liquid detergent into the spots before washing. Again the warmer the wash water the better the overall cleaning/removal.
• Consider using the appropriate bleach along with the detergent. I would need to find out if these items can safely be bleached. I recommend consumers do the quick Bleachability Test (2 tspn Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden area like an inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel); no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. Any color change could also show you the amount of change in color that likely will occur if you proceed with the liquid bleach usage. You can see a demo on my blog (http://www.drlaundryblog.com) in the video Laundry 101. Want to proceed? Wash immediately in hot water using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. Check before drying to insure complete removal. It might require multiple treatments to get the desired result.

If you can't bleach the items, then try washing in the hottest water recommended on the care labels using detergent and an oxygen bleach like our Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster. Finally, always check for success before drying. Especially in this case, it might require multiple treatments to get the desired result.

Also, a simple procedure and homemade antidote often rids vehicle carpeting of road-salt stains:

1. Brush away snow and slush. Vacuum remaining residue.
2. If stains remain, remove with a carefully applied saltwater solution: 1 cup of table salt to 1 quart of water.
3. Use a soft bristle brush or cloth to work the salt solution into the stained area. Brush outward from the stain's center to avoid leaving a ring in the carpeting.
4. With stain removed, shampoo the stain area and adjacent carpeting.