Holes in Cotton with Bleach

Q:  I am trying to make holes in cotton with bleach.  I applied non-diluted bleach to the fabric directly, let it sit for a minute or two, and then washed the fabric multiple times until the holes start to appear. It usually takes quite a number of washes before the holes start to form, and I was wondering if there was any way to expedite the process?  What would be the best amount of time to leave the bleach on the fabric, and best water temperatures to use when washing?

A:  I spend so much time instructing people to never apply full strength bleach to any fabric or hard surface that it is difficult to switch gears for your question!  I wish I knew the purpose of creating the holes – my best guess would be for fashion or art.  I am also not surprised to hear that it is taking longer than expected for the holes to develop.  After 50 cycles, under normal use, we see no significant difference in fabric damage between detergent and detergent plus bleach.  Therefore, if you want holes to develop faster with fewer treatments, increase the time that the undiluted bleach contacts the fabric.  You can also try applying bleach multiple times without washing, making certain you are re-applying the bleach to the same area by marking the spots with an X.

Q:  How do I bleach a mostly white shirt that has colored writing on the breast and back?

A:  How the writing is applied to the shirt is important to determine how comfortable you may be bleaching the shirt.  The two most common application methods are either screen print or embroidery; let us take a look at them separately.

Typically screen prints can be safely bleached without damaging the print.  Simply wash the shirt with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in warm water using a regular cycle.  If your washer has a “max extract” setting, do not select this setting as it can cause permanent creases to set into the printed area.  Air dry the shirt – keeping it out of a hot dryer is absolutely the best way to preserve the appearance of a screen print.

With embroidered writing, the situation becomes more complicated since it is impossible to test for bleachability on a “hidden area”.  However, if the embroidery thread is polyester, there is a good chance that it will be bleach-fast.  Unfortunately, you will not know until you try.  If you decide bleaching the shirt is important enough to chance faded writing, follow our “for best results” instructions, which delays the addition of the bleach as follows:  dilute ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1 quart water and add to the washer 5 minutes after the cycle has begun agitating.

If you decide against bleaching the entire shirt, try applying Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel to any specific stains you are trying to remove.  Another option is an overnight pre-soak with powdered Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster:  dissolve 1 scoop or 1 pack in 2 gallons water and fully submerge the shirt for up to 8 hours.  Drain the soaking solution, and then wash the shirt in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and Clorox2®.

Q:  I used Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster on a light tan top of mine and it took the color out.  I use this product all the time and couldn't understand what happened.

A:  I am glad you contacted us, and am also sorry to hear about the problem with your shirt.  I was wondering which Clorox2® product form you used, powder or liquid.  It would also help to know how you used it:  as a pre-treater, added to a gallon of water to pre-soak, added to the wash with your detergent, or a combination of these methods.  One last consideration is the type of washer.  Let us go through some possible scenarios with the liquid product:

•        If the product is applied directly to the fabric to pre-treat a stain, and left on the fabric too long, there can be some discoloration from the hydrogen peroxide in the formula or the concentrated application of fluorescent whiteners and dye.  We recommend washing the item 5-10 minutes after pre-treating, and never allowing the product to dry on the fabric.

•        If the product is used as a pre-soak, we recommend measuring to line 1 on the cap and adding it to 2 gallons of water.  A soaking solution made too strong could cause discoloration.  Also, we recommend soaking for up to 30 minutes for colored items, as soaking longer may also cause discoloration.

•        If you add the product through the wash and the entire shirt experienced overall fading, then it sounds like this is one of the few colored items that actually cannot be washed with any color-safe bleach product.  Check the care label; the label should specify “do not bleach” in writing or by symbol – a triangle with an X drawn through it.  If not, then the shirt was not properly tested and labeled.

With the powdered product, much of what is detailed above also applies; only adding that the recommended concentration for a pre-soak solution is 1 scoop filled to line 3, dissolved in 2 gallons of hot water.  It is important to make sure the powder has thoroughly dissolved when mixing up a pre-soaking solution, which is aided by increased water temperature.

Whether you are a pet owner or an animal lover, May is National Pet Month and is a great time to reflect on the special bond people have with their pets.  Three years ago we adopted our yellow lab, Bella, from the local Humane Society and ever since, she has brought our family so much joy!  Bella often sleeps at my feet while I work at the computer, climbs into my lap to watch a movie, and flops down on her side hoping for a tummy rub.  But Bella also likes to slobber which means her pet dishes and toys get slimy pretty quickly. To keep her bowls and favorite toys looking like new, I like to sanitize them with these simple steps:

• Mix 1 Tablespoon Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water


• Fill pre-washed pet bowls with the bleach solution and let stand two minutes


• Set any plastic dog toys you also want to sanitize in the dish at the same time


• After 2 minutes, drain and air dry

Here are some additional ways to celebrate the month, whether you have a companion of your own or just want to help a furry friend in need:

• Check the website of your local animal shelter to make a donation toward any wish list items


• Coordinate a special outing to your dog’s favorite off-leash dog park with a few neighborhood pals


• Encourage friends who are considering a pet to adopt one from a shelter or local rescue agency


• Slow down on your evening walks to let your dog sniff everything they want

Even with challenges like midnight skunk encounters (Skunk 2, Bella 0) and her chronic skin condition that limit her diet, I am so happy we gave Bella a home.  I hope you find fun ways to celebrate National Pet Month with your beloved furry companion!

Q:  Why is it best to add the bleach after the wash cycle begins?  Wouldn’t it be better to add before the wash cycle to let the clothes soak?

A: For a typical load of whites, such as lightly soiled undershirts, socks, dress shirts, tablecloths, sheets,  and any colored items that are bleach safe, delaying the addition of bleach helps a good detergent work better.  Waiting to add bleach allows time for enzymes in the detergent to break up enzyme-sensitive stains and for the fluorescent whitening agents in the detergent to deposit onto the fabric.  These whitening agents are colorless dyes that absorb non-visible light and reflect it in the visible spectrum.  Therefore, delaying the addition of Clorox® Regular-Bleach to the wash cycle gives you the best results.

However, not every load you might wash will contain only lightly soiled items.  There is a wide range of laundry, and people who give it some thought will get the best results no matter the situation!  I have listed some scenarios where a good bleach soak is the best way to go:

• Heavily soiled work clothes


• Ground in dirt on kid’s pants


• White items that picked up dye from a colored article accidentally thrown into a white load


• A dress shirt that had a ball point pen burst in the pocket

To pre-soak, we recommend a solution of ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water.  Fully submerge the item for five minutes, then drain.  Wash immediately with detergent and ¾ cup bleach in the hottest water recommended on the item’s care label.

Q: I work for an ambulatory care center and we currently do our own laundry. Our hot water cannot reach 160°F but we use the hottest water possible, and add bleach to all loads. During a recent survey we were told that depending on the temperature of the water, different quantities of bleach are required. Currently, manufacture label directions are followed. I did not find any language to the effect of water temperature and required concentration of bleach in CDC or other guidelines, and I was wondering if you happen to have any information about this.

A: This is such an interesting question because there are so many different parameters your care facility must manage to provide a safe environment for your patients. I reviewed an on-line copy of the CDC guidelines at http://www.cdc.gov/hicpac/pdf/guidelines/eic_in_HCF_03.pdf to understand the background of your question. There are two Clorox EPA registered disinfectants, Clorox® Regular-Bleach and Clorox® Commercial Solutions Ultra Clorox® Germicidal Bleach. Their disinfectant use is governed by whether or not the product has had efficacy for specific organisms established under specific use conditions.

When adding bleach it is important to follow label instructions, however you have correctly noted that the label instructions do not mention adjusting bleach amounts based on specific water temperatures. That is something not pursued as part of our EPA registration, which identifies the amount of bleach to add regardless of the wash temperature (cold, warm, hot, etc.). As long as label instructions are followed, you can be confident that the laundry is safely and effectively disinfected regardless of the water temperature. Instructions are as follows:

• For Clorox® Regular-Bleach, add 3/4 cup bleach per load for a standard washer. For a large washer or heavily soiled laundry, add up to 1 1/4 cups bleach.
• For Ultra Clorox® Germicidal Bleach, add 1 cup per load for a standard washer. For a large washer or heavily soiled laundry, add up to 1 1/4 cups bleach.

CDC guidelines clarify that the use of an EPA-registered product is necessary for disinfectancy in low temperatures. It states “choose chemicals suitable for low-temperature washing at proper use concentration if low-temperature (<160ºF [<70ºC ]) laundry cycles are used (365–370). Category II” where “suitable” denotes an EPA registered product. I do not think the intent of the report is to have facilities like yours adjust bleach usage for a precise temperature rather to clarify that only at temperatures of 160°F or higher, washing with detergent alone, is acceptable for eliminating bacteria.

[flowplayer src='http://www.clorox.com/laundry/dr-laundry-blog/wp-content/uploads/video/Bleach4BegA_01.flv' width=450 height=328 splash='/assets/Uploads/2011/06/splash-bleach-for-beginners.png' autoplay=false]
Dr. Laundry shows you how to use bleach in your laundry.

Q: In the past I’ve used the Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel when I’ve had stains on certain white shirts on which I’m hesitant to wash with regular chlorine bleach. The last time I did that the stain disappeared but the small portion of the fabric where the stain had been became even whiter than the rest of the shirt. Additionally, these shirts are truly white, not off-white or a similar color. At any rate, why did it happen, and how can I avoid it in the future?

A: If you wear and wash a shirt with detergent alone, the shirt can accumulate residual body soil overtime. By itself the shirt seems white, but in reality it is no longer its original “color”. This gradual color change became apparent when the bleach pen not only removed the stain, but also the built up, residual soil. A previous post (http://www.drlaundryblog.com/?p=96), shows how much additional soil is removed by using detergent and Clorox® Regular-Bleach than detergent alone. Combine these single-cycle differences over time, and one can end up with a white spot on a “white” shirt after pre-treating a stain.
Thankfully, a bleach pre-soak should help to even out the shades of white. Dilute ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1 gallon cool water; fully submerge the shirt for five minutes, then drain the soaking solution and wash immediately in detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. Many consumers can be concerned about effects of bleach usage on fabric over time, however our research shows that even after 50 wash loads, Clorox® Regular-Bleach does not wear down fabric any more than using detergent alone when used as directed. There are three recommended bleach-addition methods for normally soiled loads in standard washers:

• Add ¾ cup bleach (or fill to the max fill line) using the washer’s bleach dispenser.


• Add ¾ cup bleach along with the detergent to the wash water as the machine is filling, before the clothes are added.


• Dilute ¾ cup bleach in 1 quart water and add to the wash 5 minutes after the wash cycle has begun.

If you have a High-Efficiency washer, fill the machine’s bleach dispenser to the “max fill” line. Hopefully this will encourage you to feel comfortable bleaching your white items. As a reminder, avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex. The last fiber on the list is problematic in that spandex can be present in small amounts, so be sure to check the fiber content on your garments’ care label. It could be that this is the reason you have chosen not to bleach the shirts, and in that case add Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster along with your detergent.

Q: My son has just recovered from the flu, and I was wondering if it is important to disinfect his bedding to prevent spreading the germs around the house or if a generic wash with detergent alone will do the trick.

A: After the flu, it is important to take the time to disinfect sheets, pillowcases, towels and clothes, to help prevent the spread of the viruses in your home. Washing with Clorox® Regular-Bleach is a great way to fight germs, bacteria and viruses that can cause the common cold and flu in your clothes and linens. In a high efficiency washer, add ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach to the dispenser (or fill dispenser to the max-fill line). Then, add your favorite detergent to its dispenser, select a disinfecting/sanitizing cycle if available and start the washer. In a standard washer, add ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach along with detergent as the washer is filling with water, before adding the laundry. Or, use the bleach dispenser if your machine has one. To disinfect hand washables, soak items for 5 minutes in a solution of ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach diluted in 1 gallon of cool water.

Don’t forget about the germs left behind when you catch a sneeze on your sleeve of your favorite fleece. Your jacket might be safely bleachable if the fiber content is 100% polyester, even if it’s colored. Simply apply 1 drop of a solution made of 2 teaspoons Clorox® Regular-Bleach and ¼ cup water to a hidden part of the jacket, like an inside seam, cuff, or collar. Be sure to test all the different components. Wait 1 minute, then blot dry. No color change means the jacket can be safely bleached along with your bleachable white items.

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Dr. Laundry talks about how bleach can be used to keep your high efficiency washing machines odor free.