Viewing entries tagged with 'Clorox 2'

“Ultra” White Spot on White Shirt from Clorox2®

Q: I used Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster to remove a stain and it bleached my white shirt where the stain was. How do I fix the shirt? Is this a side effect of the product that sometimes happens?

A: It sounds like the white shirt may actually not be as white as it used to be; fabrics can become dingy over time when washed in cold or lukewarm water, especially if you have hard water.  You should be able to unify the appearance of the rest of the shirt with an overnight presoak.  To do this, add a capful (filled to line 1) of liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster to 2 gallons of very hot water and mix.  Add the shirt and make sure it is fully submerged – weigh it down with a dishwasher safe plate if necessary – and let the shirt soak overnight.  The next day, wash the shirt in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  This should catch the rest of the shirt up to the treated spot.

Something else to consider (especially if the presoak doesn't unify the shirt's appearance) is how long the liquid Clorox2® was on the fabric before the shirt was washed.  With pretreating, you want to allow enough time for concentrated product to work effectively at remove a tough stain, but not enough time for the brighteners and blue colorant to permanently dye the fabric.  Contact time for a pretreatment should be limited to 5-10 minutes, and the product should never be allowed to dry out on fabric.  If that is what's happened in your case, then you still could try to unify the color by soaking the shirt in a more concentrated soaking solution.

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Cooking Oil

Q. What will remove cooking oil from a t-shirt?

A. I would start by pretreating the stain with something to help solubilize the cooking oil, breaking it up to make it easier to remove.  Try liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster or liquid dishwashing detergent.  Apply a little and rub it into the stain, and wait 10 minutes (but don't let it sit too long or dry out on the fabric).  How you proceed next depends on the item.  Here are some options for different color types and fabric:

If the t-shirt is white and bleachable (avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex) then wash it in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Air dry and check for success – hopefully the stain will be gone. If a little remains you can repeat the treatment with a decent chance of eventual success; if the t-shirt has been kept out of a hot dryer.

If the t-shirt is colored, then wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  Again, be sure to air dry the shirt and then check for success, and repeat the treatment if necessary.

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Old Pet Stain

Q:  I just found an old dried in stain from my puppy on my comforter.  How can I get this stain out without having to throw away the comforter?

A:  Congratulations on the new member of your family, dogs are a wonderful addition!  If the comforter is white and made with synthetic fill, simply wash it in hot water using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  If it’s colored, you still may be able to bleach it depending on what dye was used.  You can check for colorfastness with a quick bleachability test.  To do this, add 2 teaspoons bleach to ¼ cup water and apply a drop of the solution to a hidden part of the comforter (be sure to test all colors).  Wait 1 minute, then blot dry.  No color change means the item can be safely bleached, and you can wash it as described above. 

However, if the comforter is down-filled, or the fabric does not pass the bleachability test, then you can wash the comforter with Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster.  Begin by pretreating the stain with a little liquid Clorox2® - apply it directly to the stain and rub in, allow it to sit for 5 minutes and then wash in hot water using detergent and more Clorox2®.  Air dry and check for success—repeat the treatment if necessary.  Air drying is good if you can—the cover should dry faster than the fill so just let it air dry long enough to make sure the stain is out, and then finish drying the comforter in a hot dryer (this is important to avoid the comforter mildewing). 

Another great tip is to include some clean tennis balls when transferring the comforter into the dryer.  This helps bounce the loft back into the comforter!  You may also want to consider taking the comforter to a launder mat for drying if your dryer is small and won’t allow it to fluff all the way out. 

Does anyone else have puppy or kitten stain that need to be removed?

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Red Soda on Carpet

Q:  How do I remove a red soda stain on my carpet that has been there for a month?

A:  Ideally a beverage spill can be immediately blotted and then rinsed with water to reduce the amount of stain needing to be removed.  However, that’s much more difficult to do with carpet.  A stain that sits for a while will make it even more difficult to remove.  You may want to try Formula 409® Carpet Spot & Stain Remover on it. 

If it turns out that the red colorant in the soda really needs an oxidant to fully remove the satin, you could also try Clorox2® Laundry Stain Remover, which comes in a spray bottle and includes hydrogen peroxide in the formula.  Have a pile of towels and some warm water handy to help you work on the stain.  Spray on the stain remover and let it soak into the stain, and wait 10 minutes.  Then pour a very small amount of water onto the stain, and immediately use the towels to soak up the liquid.  Hopefully the stain will be lighter, and you can repeat this until you work the stain out.  When you are finished, it is very important to have the area cleaned with a carpet cleaning machine to fully extract all the cleaning agents you applied.  Otherwise, in time you will likely end up with a dirty spot where you removed the stain because residual stain removers become dirt magnets.  Also, if your carpet is older, you may end up with a very clean spot relative to the rest of the carpet so you may need to have the entire carpet cleaned.

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Outdoor Grill Stain

Q:  I accidentally brushed up against the grill.  The stain appears to be a mix of grease and ash; it is very black and greasy.  Help!

A:  I would start by pretreating the stain with some liquid dishwashing detergent – this will help solubilize the grease, breaking it up for easier removal.  A good liquid laundry detergent will also work well.  Apply a little detergent, rub it into the stain, wait 10 minutes and then rinse the stain in warm water.  How you proceed next depends on the item.

If the item is white and bleachable (avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex) then apply Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel directly to the remaining stain and rub in.  Wash the item immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Air dry the item and check for success. Hopefully the stain will be gone, but if a little remains you can repeat the treatment with a decent chance of eventual success, if the item is kept out of a hot dryer.

If the item is colored, then pretreat the remaining stain with liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster.  Apply a little to the stain, rub in, and wait 5-10 minutes (but don't let it dry on the fabric) and then wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  Again, be sure to air dry the item, check for success and repeat the treatment if necessary.

With the warmer weather, does anyone else have some outdoor spring stains?

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Cake Icing Stain

Q:  How do I remove colored cake icing?

A:  With all those spring babies, I have a feeling this stain will become more and more popular in the months ahead!  And here’s how to tackle it…

Frosting usually contains butter or shortening, or some mixture of the two; and so you do NOT want to rinse the stain first before treating it.  Instead, start by gently scraping away as much stain as you can (plastic knives work well for this) to minimize the amount of stain you need to actually treat.  Next, pretreat with liquid dishwashing detergent—a good liquid laundry detergent will also work well—to solubilize (break down) the concentrated butter/oil.  To do his, apply a little directly to the stain and rub in.  Wait 3-5 minutes and then rinse in warm water. 

Now you can launder the item.  For white, bleachable items (always avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex) wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using your favorite detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  For colored items, wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster.  Allow the item to air dry and then check for success.  This is important because residual oily stains can be hidden on a wet or damp item, and you’ll want to keep it out of a hot dryer to avoid heat setting a stubborn stain that might otherwise come out with a second treatment. 

Are there any other birthday related stains that plague people’s laundry?  I’d love to hear about them!

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One-Stop-Shop Laundry Products

Q:  Is there one product that will get everything white, instead of using multiple products?

A:  While I wish we had one product that could do it all, a typical load of laundry isn't always "one size fits all" in determining the best way to wash each item in the load.  White cotton kitchen towels?  Wash them with Clorox® Regular-Bleach and not only are they cleaner and whiter, they are disinfected.  Sounds good so far, but that white camisole:  can you throw it in with the bleach load, too?  Not so fast! Check the care label because it probably has a small percentage of spandex in addition to the cotton. And, unfortunately, spandex cannot be bleached.  For that matter, neither can wool, silk, mohair, and leather.  Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster is a great product for whitening items that can't be bleached, plus it also improves cleaning and brightens colors compared to washing with detergent alone.  And it can also be used as a pre-treatment! 

But now you have two additives in addition to your detergent...and as long as textiles are made from a variety of fibers and people continue to get their clothes dirty, counting on one product to do it all simply won't provide the best results.  For people who like to keep it simple, starting with a really good detergent and having Clorox® Regular-Bleach and Clorox2® on hand is a good approach.

Do you like to keep it simple with only a few laundry products? Or do you like to have every laundry tool possible in your arsenal?

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Gravy Stains

Q:  How do you get rid of a gravy stain?

A:  Gravy is tricky because it is combination stain—you have both a greasy and colored component that needs to be dealt with, and it’s best to work on the greasy part first.  Start by scraping away excess gravy with a dull knife to minimize the amount of stain you need to treat.  Next, apply liquid dishwashing detergent directly to the stain and let it soak in.  Wait 10 minutes, and then rinse with a little warm water.  Now you’ll want to pretreat it again, and what product to use depends on whether the item with the stain is white or has color.

For white bleachable items (note that you should avoid bleaching items made with wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex regardless of their color) pretreat with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel.  Use the soft scrubber tip to apply a little of the gel to the remaining stain, and then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  After washing, air dry the item and check for success.  Residual oil can be hidden on a damp or wet item, so it’s important to keep it out of a hot dryer—this avoids heat setting any remaining stain that could otherwise be completely removed with a second treatment.

For colored items, after the liquid dishwashing detergent pretreatment step described above, pretreat again with Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster.  Apply a little to the stain, rub in, and wait 5- 10 minutes (but don’t let it dry on the fabric).  Next, wash the item in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  Be sure to air dry the item and check for success—repeat the treatment if a little oil still remains.

Does anyone else have stubborn stains?

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Using Clorox 2® with Other Products

Q:  Can you use Clorox 2® with a detergent like Woolite® extra dark care?

A:  Clorox 2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster can be added to any detergent to help with stain removal and brighten colors.  There's a lot of great information at http://www.clorox.com/products/clorox2/how-to/.  For dark items that people don't necessarily want to be "brighter" you can also use Clorox 2® since the low level of oxygen bleach in the formula is safe for most washable fabrics.  It's always a good idea to check care labels for instructions from the garment manufacturer on whether or not to use a color safe or non-chlorine bleach (like Clorox 2®).  If you aren't sure, you can also test for colorfastness as follows:


  • If using powdered Clorox 2®, dissolve 1 teaspoon of Clorox 2® in 1 cup of hot water. Soak a hidden area of the garment in the solution for 1 minute. Rinse and let air dry. The garment is safe for washing if color does not fade or bleed.

  • If using Liquid Clorox 2®, apply 1 drop to hidden area. Rinse after 5 minutes and air dry. The garment is safe for washing if color does not fade or bleed.


My favorite technique for keeping dark colors (especially blacks) close to their original color is to keep them out of the dryer—this requires some planning ahead since air drying takes more time, but it really pays off. 

Anyone else need tips on keeping items dark or bright?  I noticed neon is a big trend this year for spring fashion!

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Wood Stain on Clothing

Q:  I laid my clothes over the back of a wooden chair and the wood stain came off onto my clothes. One of the articles of clothing is a white t-shirt and the other is a striped cotton button-down dress. How do I get the wood stain out of my clothes?

A:  My first question is:  was the chair freshly stained?  Considering the stain that would make sense, but that would also be a problem since the dye in a wood stain is pretty concentrated and not likely to come out.  But if a little bit of the finish on an older chair rubbed off, then you could try pre-treating the stain on the white cotton shirt with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel.  Rub a little of the gel into the stain, and then wash immediately in warm water using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Air dry and check for success.  Hopefully the stain will be gone but if it is lighter, repeat the treatment.  You could also try this if the chair was freshly stained, but I'm not sure if it would be as effective since the stain would have been able to absorb into the cellulose (cotton is similar to wood, after all) rather than just sit on top of the fabric.  It's still worth a try!

For the striped button-down dress, if the stain is on the white part of the dress, you could try using the bleach pen as described above as long as the stripes are colorfast to bleach.  That's because you would likely need the follow-up wash with detergent and bleach to get this type of stain all the way out.  To test for colorfastness, apply a drop of a solution of 2 teaspoons bleach added to 1/4 cup water to a hidden part of the dress.  Wait 1 minute and then blot dry--no color change means you can safely wash the dress with bleach.  If the stain is on the colored part of the dress, don't use the bleach pen--it is intended only for white items--but instead try pretreating with liquid Clorox 2®.  Without seeing the items or knowing whether or not they picked up fresh stain, it's difficult to advise the best way to proceed, but hopefully this is enough information for you to get started.  Also, seeing what works for the white cotton t-shirt will be useful information to guide you in how you proceed with the striped dress. 

Has anyone else had this happen to them and had success in removing the stain?

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