Generally, if your machine has a bleach dispenser, it is a good idea to use it. On some models, the dispenser automatically delays the addition of bleach, which is our “for best results” addition method. Dispensers that do not delay addition, conveniently add the bleach in a method that avoids direct contact with the laundry load before water is added. If your dispenser delays addition, I would recommend using it, and the user’s guide for your washer should indicate how the dispenser works. The delay is beneficial at helping a good detergent work better for two main reasons:

1. It allows time for enzymes in the detergent to get to work breaking up enzyme-sensitive stains.


2. It allows time for fluorescent whitening agents (FWA’s) in the detergent to deposit onto the fabric. These are colorless dyes that absorb non-visible light and reflect it in the visible (usually blue) spectrum.

That said, there is a potential problem with bleach dispensers:  some designs limit the amount of bleach that can be added. This prevents consumers from adjusting the amount of bleach they use to accommodate an extra-large or heavily soiled load. In that case, it is better to skip the dispenser and add the appropriate amount of bleach directly with the detergent as the washer is filling, before the laundry load is added. You can also wash two smaller loads if you have an HE washer that “locks” during the cycle, making it difficult to safely add bleach without using the dispenser.

How do you remove baby food stains from baby clothes?

Baby food stains really benefit from pre-treating, but first be sure to scrape away excess stain (think pureed vegetable globs like sweet potatoes), and then rinse the stain with a little cool water. Be careful not to rub the stain further into the fabric. I am sure you have both white and colored items to clean, so here are some good techniques for both:

If the item is white:

• Rub stain gently with Clorox^® Bleach Pen^® Gel immediately before laundering.


• Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox^® Regular-Bleach.

If the item is colored (or made from a fiber on the do not bleach list):

• Apply Clorox2^® directly to the stain, and rub in.


• Wait 3-5 minutes, but don’t let it dry on the fabric.


• Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox2^®.

After washing, air dry the items and check for success.  This is a general technique that I always advise. Stubborn stains that are partially removed can often be treated again, and you increase your chance of eventual success if you don’t heat-set any residual stain in a hot dryer.

How would I go about whitening washcloths that were grayed by liquid body wash soap?  I have washed these cloths several times in my (HE) washer using normal laundry detergent and have had no success in getting the washcloths back to white.

There are some factors that affect cleaning, and changing your laundering habits may yield better results.  Here are some suggestions;

• Detergent choice: Make sure you are using an HE detergent — better ones contain brighteners and enzymes in addition to surfactants and builders — that is specially formulated for your washer.  Review the ingredient list, since better detergents often list the purpose of the ingredients.  A good detergent will also help bleach perform better!


• Use the correct amount of detergent:  Underusing detergent will result in poor performance, especially if you wash heavily soiled items or extra-large loads.


• Choose a “hot” wash temperature: The higher the wash temperature, the better the cleaning.


• Don’t overload the washer: Clothes need to circulate/tumble freely through the wash water for optimum cleaning.  It’s better to divide up a large, heavily soiled load into two smaller loads.


• Use the correct amount of bleach: That’s ¾ cup for a regular load, and 1 ¼ cup for an extra-large or heavily soiled load.  If your clothes washer has a bleach dispenser that limits the amount of bleach you can add, experiment with smaller loads, and fill the dispenser to the “max fill” line.

All this will help your results over time so you don’t have a buildup of incomplete soil removal. For the washcloths you have now, pre-soaking them in a solution of ¼ cup Clorox^® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water will help whiten them. Fully submerge the washcloths for 5 minutes, and then drain the soaking solution. Follow up with a hot water wash using detergent and ¾ cup bleach (or fill the dispenser to the max fill line).

My basement flooded due to rain, with sewers over-flowing from outside and creek over-flow as well. What do I use to wash everything down with so it will be disinfected?

Below is information on disinfecting your basement with Clorox^® Regular-Bleach, but first I want to remind you how to work safely with bleach to solve such a severe problem. Because you have such a large area to clean, it is important you wear protective clothing and eyewear. A long sleeved shirt and pants that you can disinfect with bleach when you are finished are fine, and you can get some goggles at your local hardware store. You should also wear gloves, and be sure your basement is well ventilated while you are working.

From the Clorox^® Regular-Bleach EPA master label:

It is critical that your basement be allowed to thoroughly dry, and you may need a de-humidifier to accomplish that. Also, note that these instructions are for non-porous walls. If your basement is finished with sheetrock, you will need to remove the wallboard down to the studs to determine if the floodwaters seeped into the walls, and if necessary treat the area with the bleach solution to prevent future mold and mildew growth. More than one treatment may be desirable to complete the process, and remember that it is critical that everything be rinsed and allowed to dry thoroughly (use a de-humidifier if necessary). Finally, all other items in the basement should be treated with the disinfecting solution per above (check for bleachability on any items/areas of concern), or disposed of.

What is the best way to remove marshmallow from clothing?

S’mores are a summer campfire staple, but they sure can be a sticky mess! Fortunately marshmallows are mostly sugar, water, and gelatin, and dissolve rather easily in water. You can also presoak the item in a detergent and water solution prior to washing for an extra cleaning boost. Add a few tablespoons liquid detergent to a gallon of warm water and fully submerge the item for 5-10 minutes. Next, pour off the soaking solution and wash the item in the hottest water recommended on the care label. Air dry the item and check for success--it's always a good idea to keep a stained item you are working on out of a hot dryer until you know the stain is all the way out so you can repeat a treatment if necessary to get a stain all the way out.

How can I remove a sunscreen stain from red and navy cotton t-shirts that remained after washing?

During summer, this is a very common stain! I suspect the oily part of the sunblock formula is what remains on your shirts, and you should be able to get this out as long as the shirts have been kept out of the dryer. Try applying a little liquid dishwashing detergent directly to the stains, and gently rub it in. Wait 5 – 10 minutes (but don’t let it dry on the fabric!) and then wash the shirts in hot water and a good detergent. Air dry the shirts and check for success—this is important to not heat-set stubborn oily stains that would come out all the way with an additional treatment. Also, air drying will help preserve the color of your dark t-shirts.

What is the best way to remove spaghetti sauce splatter from a natural, white cotton knit shirt?

Spaghetti sauce recipes can vary, but usually the stain is a combination of both oil and tomato solids. If you treat the oily part first, your chances of success go way up. Start by applying a little liquid laundry detergent or liquid dishwashing detergent directly to the stain. Gently rub it in and wait 5 minutes – this helps solubilize the oil. Rinse the treated area, and then pre-treat any stain remaining a second time to get rid of the colored part of the stain. How you do this depends on the color and fiber content of the item you are washing.

For items that are white (and don’t contain any wool, silk, spandex, mohair, or leather), apply a little Clorox^® Bleach Pen Gel directly to the stain. Wash immediately in the warmest water recommended on the garment care label with detergent + ¾ cup Clorox^® Regular-Bleach. Air dry the item to check for success – you want to avoid heat setting the stain in a hot dryer. Repeat the above steps if you don’t quite get all the stain out.

For items that are colored (or have fibers that shouldn’t be bleached, per above), apply a little liquid Clorox2^® Stain Fighter and Color Booster directly to the stain.  Rub in and wait 3-5 minutes, but don’t let it dry on the fabric, then proceed to wash in the warmest water recommended on the garment care label with detergent + more Clorox2^®. Air dry and check for success – retreat if any stain remains.

Is it safe to sanitize plastic blow-up pool toys with Clorox^® Regular-Bleach?

Happy 4^th of July! I hope everyone has a relaxing and fun-filled holiday. One common 4^th of July activity is a trip to the pool, but between the trek through the bathrooms to the time spent in the baby pool, blow-up pool toys can collect plenty of germs! Fortunately, blow-up pool toys that are made of vinyl or plastic can be sanitized with a solution of 1 tablespoon Clorox^® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water.  Wipe the bleach solution on, let stand 2 minutes, and then allow items to air dry (you don’t have to rinse them, similar to sanitizing food contact surfaces).  It will probably be easiest to do this when the toys are inflated.  Also, plan ahead and think about where you will be doing the washing and rinsing—if you will be doing this outdoors, you might want to get a large tarp to work on, use it to air dry the items on, and once you are finished just hose it off.  If the toys aren’t that big, you could also do this inside in your shower, taking care to close the door or curtain so the bleach solution doesn’t splash onto other items in your bathroom, and leave the items in the shower to air dry.

Note that if you are using the pool toys in a lake or reservoir with murky water, you may want to use a stronger solution to disinfect the toys: add ¾ cup Clorox^® Regular-Bleach to 1 gallon of water and apply the solution to the toys for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry.  For this stronger solution, if you will be working outside water any nearby plants first to protect them from runoff.

How do you remove tea stain from light blue jeans?

Since your tea stain is on denim, you can treat it by applying Liquid Clorox^® 2 Stain Fighter & Color Booster into stain and rub it in. Wait for 5-10 minutes, then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended using detergent and Clorox^® 2 Stain Fighter & Color Booster. Allow to air dry and check to make sure the stain is completely removed. It's important to keep a stained item out of a hot dryer to avoid heat setting any residual stain. That way if any stain remains, you can repeat the treatment as needed.

How do you remove pine sap from a cotton t-shirt?

Tree sap is a very challenging stain to get out. Try treating the stain directly with DeSolvIt^® or Goo Gone^®, which you can find at hardware stores. You should first test for colorfastness (apply a drop to a hidden part of the garments, rinse, and blot dry) if you want to be sure the product is safe for the fabric. If there is no color change, rub a little into the sap and then wash with detergent in the hottest water allowed (check the care label). Allow to air dry and then check for success. You may need to repeat the treatment to remove the stain fully, so it's very important to keep the item out of a hot dryer to avoid heat-setting any residual stain that would otherwise come out with a second treatment. You can also increase the length of time you pre-treat the stains before washing—just don’t let the product dry on the fabric.