Viewing entries tagged with 'General'

Water Color Change with Bleach

Q: Why does adding Clorox ® Regular-Bleach turn my water pink, and also stain my white items brown? This especially happens when I add detergent (All® HE).  Our water has silica, but that is it.  Could it be the pipes (PVC and copper)?

A: It sounds to me like your water has high iron content - have you ever had it tested by a laboratory?  The pink color you are reporting is typically seen when bleach oxidizes the iron, giving the water a pink hue and causing the brown spots which are actually rust deposits.  Installing a water treatment system is usually the best way to get these problems under control.  If you determine that your water doesn't have any iron in it, then it would be good to check your clothes washer for any corroded areas that have rusted. These could be transferring rust into the wash water and onto your clothes.  Until you identify and correct the source of the iron/rust, using bleach will only exacerbate the problem.

Has anyone else experienced similar problems due to high iron content?

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Soaking a Knitted Shirt

Q: I have a knitted shirt that has some stains, how long should I let it soak with out damage?

A:  Here’s a quick guide to help:

A pre-soak with Clorox® Regular Bleach:  Use 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water; fully submerge for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.  (Note: never use Clorox Regular-Bleach full strength—it should always be diluted first).

Pre-Treat with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel: apply the gel directly to stains on white bleachable items, and then wash immediately with detergent + ¾ cup bleach.

Pre-Treat with Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster (for non-bleachable items): apply a little of the liquid directly to the stain and wait 3-5 minutes before washing.

Pre-Soak with Clorox2®: use either 1 scoop or 1 cap added per 2 gallons of warm water.  Submerge colored items for up to 1 hour, and white items for up to 8 hours.

As a general rule, the sooner you wash something, the easier it will be to get the stain out!

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Whitening Cotton/Polyester Blends

Q:  How do you whiten cotton/polyester blends?

A:  Cotton/polyester blend white fabrics can be safely washed with Clorox® Regular-Bleach on an on-going basis.  Always wash whites in hot water - or the hottest water recommended on a care label.  It's also important to use enough bleach:  3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach for normal size loads, and up to 1 1/4 cups for extra-large or heavily soiled loads.  In a standard washer, delay bleach addition for best results by diluting 3/4 cup bleach in 1 quart of water and adding it to the clothes washer 5 minutes after the wash cycle has begun.  If you have a HE washer, with a small-capacity bleach dispenser, consider washing two smaller loads if you have heavily soiled laundry.

For extra whitening or heavily stained items, use a bleach soaking solution of 1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water.  Fully submerge the item for 5 minutes, then rinse.  Finish by washing the item in hot water, using detergent + 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

Readers, have you bleached anything recently?

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Stained Pillow Cases from Oily Hair

Q:  My husband has oily hair and has left the pillowcases yellowed. How do I make them white again and do I soak them (how much and how long) before washing? I'm afraid this has built up over time.

A:  This is quite a problem, not just because of the oil build up, but also from the likelihood that these pillowcases have been going into a hot dryer following each wash cycle.  Heat from the dryer can “set” stains, making them very difficult to get out.  However, with a series of soaks you should be able to whiten the pillowcases substantially.  I would pre-soak several times with a couple of different products so you can solubilize the oil, as well as break up and remove residual body soil.  It’s best to work on the oily residue first:


  • In a plastic dishpan, dissolve 1 scoop of powdered Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster in 2 gallons of very hot water—getting it up to around 160°F (using water from a tea kettle with hot tap water works well). Completely submerge the pillowcases (weigh them down if necessary—glass pie dishes work well) for 8 hours or overnight.  Rinse the pillowcases and dish pan before the next step.

  • Pre-soak with a Clorox® Regular-Bleach soaking solution.  Add ¼ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water and fully submerge the pillowcases for 5 minutes.  Drain the soaking solution and then wash the pillowcases in hot water using detergent + ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

  • Air dry the pillowcases and check to see if any yellowing remains.  If it looks like you are making progress, then repeat the steps if necessary.


In the future, make sure you always wash your sheets and pillowcases using hot water, a good detergent that contains enzymes, and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Pretreating the area of the pillowcase that gets oily with a little liquid laundry detergent before washing will also help keep the oil build-up under control.  Good luck!

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Hard Water Stains

Q:  Can I use Clorox to remove or prevent stains on my laundry?  They are sort of rust colored and may be from our well hard water. 

A:  That’s too bad about the rust stains in your laundry, and that you have hard water.  Unfortunately rust stains can NOT be removed with Clorox® Regular-Bleach (or any chlorine bleach for that matter).  You need to use a rust remover product instead, and these can be found at hardware stores. Just be sure to read and follow the package directions, including testing items for colorfastness to the rust remover, and wearing gloves.

I would also consider installing a water filtration/softener system for your clothes washer—the brown stains you are getting indicate that your well water includes metals (probably iron and manganese) in addition to higher concentrations of calcium and magnesium.  Until they are removed, using bleach will exacerbate the problem.  Improving water quality will get you better laundry results in the long run and is worth it! 

Does anyone else suffer from hard water stains?

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Removing Bleach Stains from Vinyl Flooring

Q:  How do I remove a bleach stain from a vinyl floor?

A:  It is always helpful to know a little more about the stain.  For example:  is it lighter than the overall color of the vinyl floor, or is it some sort of discoloration?  Do you know how it happened, and the age of the flooring?  All of this is important because vinyl flooring is made with a “wear layer” according to my local flooring company.  I stopped in to talk to them since I really don’t have much experience restoring damaged vinyl floors.

 I do know that vinyl flooring can be safely disinfected with a solution of ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water that is applied for 5 minutes, rinsed, and allowed to air dry.  However, we never recommend applying full strength bleach to any surface – it should always be diluted first. 

My local flooring company said that undiluted bleach would have to be left on a vinyl floor for quite an extended period of time before causing any discoloration due to protection from its wear layer.  Just as with fabric, I expected that bleach damage to the floor would be irreversible.  The flooring company confirmed this, and unfortunately did not have any tips for restoring the damage.  Their recommendation was to remove the stained area and patch it with additional flooring material that was hopefully saved when the vinyl was installed. 

Has anyone had similar issues?

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Removing Gum from Fabric

Q:  How to get a thin layer of gum out of a shirt collar?

A:  I have good news for you!  Gum is surprisingly easy to remove by freezing.  Just apply an ice cube directly to the gum, and as it hardens, it will crack and you can scrape it away.  For a thin layer of gum, one or two ice cubes should do it—let me know how it goes!

Readers – have you experienced problems with gum on your clothing?

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Stains on Whites after Washing

Q: What are the yellow-orange stains I see on my whites after I wash them?

A: It’s hard to know for certain without a little more information, but if this happens after every white load it could be that they are rust stains.  It is especially easy for rust to transfer onto items in older washers that have corrosion on some of the metal parts.  If this is the case, you can try using a rust remover product like Whink®, which can usually be found at hardware stores. Just be sure to read and follow the package directions, including wearing gloves.  I would also check your washer for any signs of corrosion, especially under the enamel coated body of the washer, above the basket/tub where the clothes are loaded.  Another problem area is the interior of the basket (the other side of the holes where the water is extracted during the spin cycle).  Replacing the washer may be necessary if the problem is serious enough.  Good luck!

Have and of you noticed yellow-orange stains on your whites?  What have you done to combat the stains?

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Eradicating Underarm Stains

Q:   My husband and I recently purchased our first washer and dryer.  With them came some tips on stain removal; however the application instructions were vague.  My husband has some shirts that are stained in the armpit area, I believe due to the combination of his deodorant and perspiration.  The tip states to pre-treat with boiling water then equal parts baking soda, hydrogen peroxide & water; rinse and then detergent pre-soak.  How should I apply these items to the shirt (i.e. put the shirt in container with these items or simply pour them over the affected area on the shirt)? This is a new process for me and I am unsure how to apply this valuable tip. 

A:  How nice to have your own washer and dryer; now you will have more time without having to go to and from the launder mat!  It is also great you read the washer’s instruction guide.  I agree that the underarm stain removal tip sounds a little confusing.  These stains are hugely problematic, partly because they are highly variable.  On some t-shirts, it is a crusty buildup of deodorant; others can just have a light transfer of anti-perspirant, and unfortunately with garments like silk tops, it is permanent discoloration.  Light smears usually come off with regular washing.  For the crusty build up, it is better to not let it happen in the first place, so start fresh with your new washer by stocking up on white undershirts for your husband.  Then proceed as follows:


  1. Pre-treat the armpits of each white t-shirt with Clorox® Bleach Pen Gel:  use the broad scrubber tip to apply the gel and gently rub it into the stain.  Since you want to prevent build-up, do this every time you wash the shirts, whether or not you see a stain.

  2. Wash immediately in hot water with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

  3. Tumble dry with the rest of your white load.


Ideally, the white undershirts will protect your husband’s other colored shirts from getting any underarm stains that cannot be easily bleached away.  But for a colored shirt, you can try pre-treating the armpits each time you wash the shirt (again, to prevent build up) as follows:

  1. Apply liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster directly to the armpit area and rub in; wait 3-5 minutes (do not let it dry on the fabric).

  2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and additional Clorox2® based on your load size.

  3. If there were obvious underarm stains that you pre-treated, then be sure to air dry the shirt and check for success; repeat if necessary.


If you would like to attempt using the washer’s user guide recommendation, try this method:

  1. Working in a dishpan, pour boiling water slowly through each armpit stain.  This is to “melt” the build-up, which is a combination of deodorant, sweat, body soil, bacteria, etc.  Before you start, it will be helpful to position the shirt in the dishpan so you will not have to touch it once you start since it will be boiling hot!

  2. Do not rinse the shirt – just pour off as much of the hot water as you can.  This keeps the build-up in a more “melted” state.  And if you do need to handle the shirt, either use kitchen tongs or wear gloves.

  3. Apply the mixture of 1:1:1 parts baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, and water directly to the stain.  Sometimes this is referred to as a paste, but it is actually quite watery, so be sure to blend the mixture enough to saturate the stains.

  4. Rinse the shirt, and then follow up with a hot water wash with a good enzyme-containing detergent.  (For white t-shirts, be sure to add ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach!)


For ongoing prevention of underarm stains, personally I think this last method is way too much work, and I would start fresh with new t-shirts and stick with the previous treatments. 

Have any of you experienced similar stubborn stains?

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Adding Bleach to a Wash Cycle

Q:  Why is it best to add the bleach after the wash cycle begins?  Wouldn’t it be better to add before the wash cycle to let the clothes soak?

A: For a typical load of whites, such as lightly soiled undershirts, socks, dress shirts, tablecloths, sheets,  and any colored items that are bleach safe, delaying the addition of bleach helps a good detergent work better.  Waiting to add bleach allows time for enzymes in the detergent to break up enzyme-sensitive stains and for the fluorescent whitening agents in the detergent to deposit onto the fabric.  These whitening agents are colorless dyes that absorb non-visible light and reflect it in the visible spectrum.  Therefore, delaying the addition of Clorox® Regular-Bleach to the wash cycle gives you the best results.

However, not every load you might wash will contain only lightly soiled items.  There is a wide range of laundry, and people who give it some thought will get the best results no matter the situation!  I have listed some scenarios where a good bleach soak is the best way to go:


  • Heavily soiled work clothes

  • Ground in dirt on kid’s pants

  • White items that picked up dye from a colored article accidentally thrown into a white load

  • A dress shirt that had a ball point pen burst in the pocket


To pre-soak, we recommend a solution of ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water.  Fully submerge the item for five minutes, then drain.  Wash immediately with detergent and ¾ cup bleach in the hottest water recommended on the item’s care label.

Washing machine

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