Q:   How should one use Clorox ® Washing Machine Cleaner in a washing machine without a bleach dispenser?

A: I am assuming you have a standard deep-fill washer since you don’t have a bleach dispenser.  Begin by selecting a hot water cycle, and start the washer (be sure it is empty).  Once you have a little water in the bottom of the tub, you can add Clorox® Washing Machine Cleaner directly to the washer tub—the correct amount to use is 1 cup.  Also, be sure to select an extra rinse cycle. If this is not an option on your washer, then, after the cycle you selected runs to completion, manually select a rinse cycle and start the washer again.  This helps ensure that no bleach is left in the washer. 

How many readers have a washing machine without a bleach dispenser?

Q: We have well water that has high amounts of silica.  This can etch most surfaces.  Is there any special care I should use when using Clorox® Regular-Bleach in my HE machine?

A: Regarding the silica in your well water, I think you mean silicate that is dissolved – silica is basically insoluble, so although it may be analyzed as silica, it is actually silicate.  Silica/silicate should not harm your clothes while cleaning, and in fact, may help--that’s why sodium silicate is a common detergent ingredient.  It binds to many other elements like – calcium, magnesium, iron, etc.  However, silicate is insoluble in the presence of calcium, becoming a precipitating builder, which can be problematic if the precipitate attaches itself to fabric, causing encrustation (most obvious on towels).  Silica/silicate really shouldn’t etch stainless steel or enamel, with or without bleach added to the wash load so I do wonder about the etching you are seeing—is it mainly noticed on glassware?  This would likely be caused by poorly tempered glass having its cations leached out non-uniformly.  It sounds like you may have had your water tested but didn’t mention having high iron or manganese. These metals are problematic for bleach because they can cause white fabrics to yellow over time.  In that case, it’s a good idea to install a filtration system.

Have any readers experienced similar issues with different water properties?

Q: Can Clorox2® remove stains from colored clothes without leaving a bleach stain? I've always been too afraid to try.

A: Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster is a great product to add along with your favorite detergent to boost cleaning, stain removal, brightening, and whitening of virtually all washable garments. That’s because the formula includes hydrogen peroxide, a much gentler color-safe bleach.  It can be added to the wash load along with your detergent, and the liquid formula can be used to pre-treat stains directly.  Be careful to not let the product dry on the fabric – 3-5 minutes of contact time is usually sufficient to remove stains.  You can also test garments or items you are unsure about by applying a drop to a hidden area (like the inside hem).  Wait 3-5 minutes then rinse and blot dry.  No color change?  Then you can safely use Clorox2®!  There is a lot of great information on Clorox2® on the products tab, so be sure to check it out.  I hope you will give it a try!

Readers – I’d love to hear about any stains you’ve treated with Clorox2®.

Q: Is it better to put the bleach in the water with the detergent prior to loading the clothes, or is it better to put the bleach in the designated dispenser? 

A:  Generally, if your machine has a bleach dispenser, it is a good idea to use it.  On some models, the dispenser automatically delays the addition of bleach, which is our “for best results” addition method.  Dispensers that do not delay addition, conveniently add the bleach in a method that avoids direct contact with the laundry load before water is added.  If your dispenser delays addition, I would recommend using it, and the user’s guide for your washer should indicate how the dispenser works.  The delay is beneficial at helping a good detergent work better for two main reasons:

1. It allows time for enzymes in the detergent to get to work breaking up enzyme-sensitive stains.


2. It allows time for fluorescent whitening agents (FWA’s) in the detergent to deposit onto the fabric.  These are colorless dyes that absorb non-visible light and reflect it in the visible (usually blue) spectrum.

 That said, there is a potential problem with bleach dispensers:  some designs limit the amount of bleach that can be added.  This prevents consumers from adjusting the amount of bleach they use to accommodate an extra large or heavily soiled load.  In that case, it is better to skip the dispenser and add the appropriate amount of bleach directly with the detergent as the washer is filling, before the laundry load is added.   You can also wash two smaller loads if you have an HE washer that “locks” during the cycle, making it difficult to safely add bleach without using the dispenser.

Readers:  how do you add your bleach?

Q:  I just bought the Clorox Plus® Splash-Less Bleach and it is watery, is that normal?

A:  I am not sure what you mean by “watery”.  Clorox Plus® Splash-Less Bleach should be a clear, lime-yellow liquid that is slightly thicker than water.  The thickeners that make it easier to pour with less splashing do not make it pour similarly to, say, olive oil.  It is closer to pouring freshly mixed gelatin (i.e. JELL-O®) before it has had a chance to cool and set.  Depending on what you were expecting, it could seem watery, but in a side-by-side comparison with Clorox® Regular Bleach, it should be thicker. 

What do you prefer:  Clorox Plus® Splash-Less Bleach or Clorox® Regular-Bleach?

Q:  How do I get the Clorox® Bleach smell out of my blouse which is made of rayon?

A:  To remove a lingering bleach smell from a garment, try a pre-soak with liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster.  Just fill the cap to line 1 and add it to 2 gallons of water.  Fully submerge the shirt for 5 minutes.  This should be enough to allow the hydrogen peroxide in Clorox2® to react with any residual chlorine on the shirt.  Then thoroughly rinse the shirt and allow it to air dry. 

Do you have a favorite Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster scent?  Mine is Lavender!

Q. I have a black & white shirt, and when I washed it, the black bled into the white. So now instead of having a black & white shirt, I have a black and dingy white shirt. Is there anything I can do to return the white to its normal color without bleaching the black?

A. I have seen so many dark color/white stripe items that end up with this problem. Our Marketing folks like the "looks" of these for commercials and print ads, but there is such a range of quality in the dying that one really ends up rolling the dice when you buy one of these garments. When these dark colors are 100% cotton, they are notorious for bleeding for a few washes. When they are solid colors, they can always be washed/soaked with similar dark colors. Unfortunately, I probably don't have much good news for you. Your only hope is to try to bleach the affected area, but I doubt the item can handle that without bleaching out the black color.

I would try the following:

First, we need to know if the black colored stripes can stand to be bleached. Just do the simple Bleachability Test on any colored portion in a hidden part of the shirt.

• Add 2 tspns. liquid Clorox® Regular-Bleach to 1/4 cup water
• Apply a drop on a hidden color section like the inside seam, hemline or cuff. Wait 1 minute and then blot with a towel. No color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item.
• Next, wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach
• If the black color is not bleachable, then I would try presoaking/applying Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach:
o Apply; rub in; wait approximately 5 minutes; then wash immediately with detergent and the recommended amount of Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach in the warmest wash water recommended on the care label.
• Check for success and retreat if needed BEFORE drying.

Also remember that washing in hotter water will SLOWLY remove additional dye over time. However, this will usually be barely perceptible wash-to-wash.

Q. I have four blouses with varying cotton to spandex combinations. They are in various "shades of white,” and I would like to rejuvenate them for additional wearing life. Instructions call for a cold water wash. Can you help?

A. I'm not quite sure from your description if the "various shades of white" were original color or something that has developed over time from your wearing and laundering. Spandex-containing items are known for holding odors and being hard to clean. Generally, the usual methods of cleaning normal blouses should work here with a couple of “watch outs.”
The key properties we are trying to preserve here are the stretch and appearance. To preserve stretch, you cannot be aggressive with laundering and drying. Thus, one avoids hot water washing and either air-dries the item on a flat surface or tumbles it on a low setting in the dryer. For best appearance, make sure you wash it in the warmest water recommended on the care labels. Also, use a good detergent at the recommended amount, and I also recommend adding Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster. Another option might be to add a presoak using the Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster before the wash to help get a cleaning boost.

Also, it is not recommended to use liquid bleach on Spandex items. The higher the Spandex content, the more likely some yellowing may occur with repeated washings.

Q. I forgot a load of bright colors in the washing machine, and now they smell bad. Can I use some of your Green Works All-Purpose Cleaner in the wash, or will it fade the colors? What would you recommend using to freshen the clothes up?

A. If clothes are left in the washer for an extended period, they can develop an "off odor" due to either incomplete cleaning and/or mildew.

My recommendation would be to re-wash them in the warmest water advised on the care labels using the recommended amount of detergent and probably adding some Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster. This will boost your cleaning power and help remove some of the odor. Your best solution would have been adding some Clorox® Regular-Bleach, which would solve both problems, but probably isn't appropriate for the bright colors. The Green Works™ All-Purpose Cleaner is fine for your around-the-home cleaning but lacks the power for good laundry cleaning. Another option might be to do add a presoak using the Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster before the wash to help remove more of the odor.

Q: My daughter's roommate used her iron but didn't clean it after she finished. My daughter went to iron her cotton top and the iron got black marks all over it. Do you know how to get this out? We have tried everything!

A: I'm not sure what originally caused the "black marks" on the iron. This might be useful info as this material has been re-melted and is now transferred/stuck to the cotton top.

Usually for regular iron scorchmarks, the recommendation is to rewash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and liquid bleach like Clorox® Regular-Bleach. While a single wash may not be enough, usually a couple of these treatments are needed.

If this is a transfer of melted material, then a slightly different tact should be considered. Here you will need to re-warm from the back of the scorched item and transfer it onto another item, like an old towel. Some people say that a damp towel with peroxide is good to use since it helps warm from both sides and provides the bleaching power to help clean-up any residual color.
Simply dampen the towel and add a diluted peroxide solution (1:1 should be OK). Place in contact with the scorched portion, and apply the warming iron. As the scorch material warms it will transfer to the towel. Keep changing the area so a clean portion of the towel is available – this prevents re-deposition of the material back on the original item. You may need more than one application to completely remove.