Q:  How you do remove blood from sheets

A:  I recommend presoaking blood stains in cool water using a good detergent that contains enzymes – check the list of ingredients to know for sure.  You need to soak items for at least 30 minutes (ideally 60 minutes). This is because enzymes break down the protein in blood and they need enough time to do it—the “wash” portion of a wash cycle is usually not long enough, especially for heavily stained items.  Following the presoak, drain the presoaking solution and rinse the items, and then proceed as follows depending on whether your item is white or colored:

For stained items that are white:

1.       Rub the stain gently with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel immediately before laundering.
2.       Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular- Bleach.
3.       Air dry and check for success. If residual stain remains, repeat the treatment.
4.       Remember to avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex, even if they are white—treat these fabrics as if they were colored.

For stained items that are colored:

1.       Apply Liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster and rub into stain
2.       Wait 3-5 minutes, then wash immediately in hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox2®
3.       Air dry and check for success. If residual stain remains, repeat the treatment

Readers – what has been most successful for you when removing blood stains from your sheets?

Q:  How do I get rid of perspiration stains?

A:  These stains are hugely problematic, partly because they are highly variable.  On underwear style t-shirts, it might be a crusty buildup of deodorant/antiperspirant.  Or it can just be a light smear of antiperspirant/deodorant that transferred to a shirt while it was being put on.  On others, like silk tops, it’s discoloration that is impossible to restore.  Light smears usually come off with regular washing.  For the crusty build up, it’s better to not let it happen in the first place, so if you have white t-shirts are in really bad shape I would start fresh by stocking up on new ones.  Then to prevent build-up on an on-going basis, try the following:

1. Pre-treat the armpits of each white t-shirt with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel: use the broad scrubber tip to apply the gel and gently rub it into the stain.  Since you want to prevent build-up, do this whether or not you actually see any stain every time you wash a shirt.


2. Wash immediately in hot water with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.


3. Unless you have an obvious stain you were trying to remove, you can tumble dry the shirts with the rest of your white load.  Otherwise let them air dry.

Ideally, white undershirts will protect your other shirts from getting any underarm stains that can easily be bleached away.  But for a colored t-shirt that he wouldn’t wear an undershirt with, you can try pre-treating the armpits each time you wash the shirt (again, you want to prevent build up) as follows:

1. Apply liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster directly to the armpit area and rub it in; wait 3-5 minutes (don't let it dry on the fabric).


2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and additional Clorox2® based on your load size.


3. If there were obvious underarm stains that you pre-treated, then be sure to air dry the shirt and check for success; repeat if necessary.

For stained shirts that you have and you want to restore, you can try a recommendation often provided in clothes washer user’s guides.  Here’s a little more detail on how to do it:

1. Working into a dishpan, pour boiling water slowly through each armpit stain.  This is to “melt” any build-up, which is a combination of deodorant, sweat, body soil, bacteria, etc.  It will help if you position the shirt in the dishpan before you start so that you can get to each stain without touching the shirt since once you begin--it will be boiling hot!

2. Don’t rinse the shirt—just pour off as much of the hot water as you can.  This keeps the build-up in a more “melted” state.  And if you do need to handle the shirt either use kitchen tongs or wear gloves.

3. Apply a mixture of 1:1:1 parts baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, and water directly to the stain.  Sometimes this is referred to as a paste, but it is actually quite watery, so be sure to mix up enough so you can saturate the stains.

4. Rinse the shirt, and then follow up with a hot water wash with a good enzyme-containing detergent.  (For white t-shirts, be sure to add ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach!)

For ongoing prevention of underarm stains, personally I think this last method is way too much work, and I would start fresh with new t-shirts and stick with the other methods.  If you do try to restore your shirts, please let me know how it goes!

Readers – have you had trouble with perspiration stains?  What is your solution to this problem?

Q:  I have a few mildew stains on a lamp shade. The shades cannot be immersed in water, I have to spot clean them. I have already tried a dish washing soap/water mixture to no avail as well as Oxiclean. I have heard a dishwashing soap and/or bleach might work.

A:  This sounds like quite a problem and I wish I had a more encouraging reply for you.  When cleaning an item with mildew that can’t be immersed, it becomes difficult to rinse away the detergent solution you applied.  The residue left behind will become a dirt magnet, causing stains to “reappear” in the same spot over time.  Also, there is the chance that a bleach solution will alter the color of the lampshade in addition to removing any mildew.  Keep in mind, you have a lampshade that if you can’t get clean, you will need to throw away, so you don’t have much to lose if you experiment with trying to restore it.  You could try the following:

1. Apply a water mist to the entire surface of the lampshade until it is slightly damp (a spray bottle works well for this).


2. Use a sponge to apply a bleach solution of ¼ cup bleach diluted in 1 gallon cool water to the entire surface of the lampshade.  To catch any drips, you should do this while working over a white towel spread out over a bleach-safe surface, like a kitchen countertop or the top of your clothes washer.


3. Gently brush the mildew spots with a soft tooth brush.


4. Wait 5 minutes, then quickly rinse and immediately blot dry with a few more clean towels.

It’s possible that the reason the lampshade can’t be immersed is that glue was used in its construction and the shade manufacturer wants to prevent it from dissolving.  The shape of the shade (if it’s pleated, for example) may become distorted, too, so I would only attempt a bleach treatment if you have decided you have nothing to lose.  You could also contact a fabric restoration service and see what they charge—if it’s expensive, then it could be that replacing the lampshade is actually a more cost effective option.  Good luck!

Readers – how do you go about removing stains from a lamp shade?

Using Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster in Japan

Q:  I just bought some Clorox2® at Costco in Japan.  As you probably know, our washers here are cold water and most Japanese don’t have dryers.  I didn't know you had a cold water formula. My kids' school uniform has a white shirt that they are always getting mud on.  The playground is, in fact, made of dirt.   Should I soak in plain hot water first then pre-treat with Clorox2®?  Should I just try and hunt down some regular Clorox®?  If I wash and then there are still mud stains, is my approach different?

A:  I’m curious as to how long you will be in Japan—what a great experience!  I have never been to Japan, which makes it more difficult to dispense laundry advice, but I will do my best.  I have some general suggestions that will hopefully help improve your results.  

Cold water washing is always a challenge, but probably more common in Japan given the national interest in conserving energy.  That said; pre-soaking with Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster in hot water will be very helpful.  You just need a plastic dishpan, and then you can proceed as follows with your child’s muddy white shirt:

1. Rinse garments in warm water to remove any loose soil.


2. Measure a scoop or capful and add it to 2 gallons of hot water—make sure the powder dissolves completely.


3. Fully submerge the shirt in the pre-soak solution for up to 8 hours or overnight.


4. Drain the pre-soak solution.


5. Apply Clorox2® (if it’s the liquid) directly to any remaining stain, and then wash in your clothes washer with detergent. 

For improved cleaning of your colored items, proceed as above, but limit the Clorox2® presoak time to 30 minutes.  Also, for your white items, I would definitely try to track down Clorox® Regular-Bleach, or if you can’t find that, the local brand of sodium hypochlorite bleach.  If language is an issue, you might want to try bringing a printout of the translation of what you want. 

If your clothes washer has a dispenser for Clorox® Regular-Bleach then I would use it.  You can also pre-soak white items with ¼ cup bleach diluted in 1 gallon of water for 5-10 minutes.

Readers – have you had trouble using Clorox2® while in Japan?  Any suggestions?

Q:  I have a white spandex camisole that's gotten dingy over the months, how do I wash it? Should I bleach it? Every time I try washing it, it stays just as dingy as when I put it in the washer.

A:  White items with spandex are great to wear, but such a pain to take care of—you can’t wash them with Clorox® Regular-Bleach because it’s not safe for that fiber type.  You should also avoid bleaching wool, silk, leather and mohair.  To improve the appearance of your camisole, you could try soaking it in powdered Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster.  Dissolve 1 scoop powder in 2 gallons of very hot water; fully submerge the shirt in the soaking solution overnight.  Next, run it through a regular wash cycle with detergent plus Clorox2®.

Something else to consider is what you can do on an ongoing basis to keep those non-bleachable whites as white as they can be:

• Always wash white items that can’t be bleached with light colors, or by themselves. 


• Use a good detergent—one that includes enzymes and brighteners will give you the best results.


• Add Clorox 2® to every load—its formula includes color-safe peroxide bleach that improves detergent performance.


• Always wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label—the hotter the water, the better the cleaning.


• Check your “warm” water temperature—depending on how far away from your water heater your clothes washer is, you may need to select a “hot” cycle just to wash with “warm” water!

Readers – how do you go about cleaning your white spandex camisoles?

Q:  When I wash my bath cloths the dark stains don’t come out, what is the problem?

A:  I wish I had a little more information—do you mean wash cloths and/or towels?  I realize you may not know what the stain is—this happens when you don’t notice a stain until later!  But for a bath towel, here are a few possibilities: blood from shaving accidents, mildew from towels sitting damp in the laundry hamper, and oil from lotions or creams are all possibilities.  It would be great if your towels are white, and the stains haven’t been “set” in a hot dryer—once stains are exposed to dryer heat they become extremely difficult to remove.  Even so, for white towels you could try a pre-soak with ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water.  Let the towels soak for 5 minutes, then drain the soaking solution and run the towels through a hot wash cycle with detergent plus ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  It may be necessary to repeat the treatment if the stains are set in.

If you think the stains are oily, then you will need to pre-treat the dark area with a little liquid dishwasher detergent first—rub it in and wait 5 minutes.  Then, if the towels are white, wash in hot water with detergent plus ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

If your towels are colored, you can do a quick bleachability test: add 2 teaspoons Clorox® Regular-Bleach to ¼ cup water.  Apply a drop of this solution to a hidden part of the colored item (hems, cuffs, and inside seams work well).  Wait 1 minute, then blot dry.  No color change means the item can be safely bleached.  If they don’t, and the stains are mildew, it will be difficult to remove them without bleach.  Repeated washing in hot water with detergent and Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster may help you make some progress. 

Readers – do you have white or colored towels? How do you remove stains from them?

Q:  How do I get dandelion stains out of a knit top?

A: I don’t have a lot of experience with dandelion stains, so I went out to the front yard and picked a few.  I am assuming you’d like help with stains from the yellow flower petals—they certainly make colorful stains!  Fortunately they are a lot like grass stains, and I found that the following is effective to remove them:

1. Presoak the stained area with a good detergent (that contains enzymes) and warm water for 30 minutes.


2. Rinse away the soaking solution—you’ll still see yellow staining, and now it’s time for bleach.


3. If your stained item is white, then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label with detergent plus ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.


4. If your stained item is colored, pre-treat the remaining stain directly with liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster.  Wait 3-5 minutes then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label with detergent plus more Clorox2®.  By pre-treating the stain, you get maximum power from the oxygen bleach in Clorox2®.  Note that because it is a gentler bleach, it’s good to air dry the top and check to make sure all the stain is out. You can repeat this step if any stain remains.

Readers – do you have experience with dandelion stains?  How do you go about removing those vibrant stains?

Q:  How can I get rid of collar & cuff stains?

A: Because collars and cuffs can easily build up a lot of body soil that is rubbed into the fabric, pre-treating is a good way to get great stain removal results.  The color and fiber of the shirt determines what products you can use.  For white cotton and polycotton shirts, try the following:

1. Apply Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel to the stain—use the soft scrubber tip to gently rub in.


2. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent plus ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.


3. Air dry and check for success—you can always treat the area again if the stains are really stubborn.

For colored items, you can pre-treat with liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster:

1. Apply Clorox2® directly to the stain and rub in.


2. Wait 3 - 5 minutes; don’t let the product dry on the fabric.


3. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and more Clorox2®.


4. Air dry and then check to see if any stain remains.  Stubborn stains may need to be treated again.

Another consideration for white shirts is to be sure to check the care label and identify if your shirt has a small percentage of spandex in it.  Spandex (along with wool, silk, mohair, and leather) should not be bleached regardless of the color.  For any shirts with spandex, just follow the instructions for a colored item. 

Readers – do you have problems with collar and cuff stains?  What’s your solution?

Q:  I spilt coffee on my white clothes.  How can I remove these stains?

A: Hopefully your white item is bleachable.  You should avoid bleaching fabrics that are made with wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex.  If bleachable, proceed as follows:

1. For localized stains, rub stain gently with Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel just before laundering.


2. For large spills, pre-soak the entire item in a solution of ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water. Submerge the garment and soak for 5 minutes.


3. Wash immediately in the hottest water recommended by the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.


4. Air dry the item and check for success—larger stains may require an additional treatment for complete removal.

If your white item includes any of the fibers on the “avoid bleaching” list, above, then you should treat it as follows:

1. Apply Liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster and rub into stain.  Wait 3-5 minutes, then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended using detergent and Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster.


2. Air dry the item and check to make sure the stain is completely removed. If stain remains, repeat steps above.

Readers – have you ever spilt coffee on your white clothes?

Q: How can I remove sunscreen stains from shirts?

A: For sunscreen stains, it's best to treat the greasy portion first, so don’t apply any water to the shirt.  Instead, blot up any excess with a paper towel or cloth, and try not to rub hard to avoid pushing it further into the fabric.  Next, pre-treat using a good liquid laundry or dishwashing detergent--rub it into the stain and wait 5-10 minutes.

Now, for white items:

1. Wash immediately in hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.


2. Air dry and inspect the item.  If any stain remains, repeat the steps before tumble drying the item.

Or, for colored items:

1. Apply Liquid Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster, rub it into the stain and wait 3-5 minutes.  Wash in the warmest water recommended using detergent and more Clorox 2®.


2. Air dry and then inspect the item.  If any stain remains, repeat the steps before tumble drying the item.

Readers – how do you remove sunscreen stains from your clothing?