Viewing entries tagged with 'Summer Stains'

Strawberry Stain Removal

How do I get strawberry stains out?

For strawberry stains, start by blotting away any excess (if the stain is fresh) and then rinse the stain with cold water.  What you do next depends on the color and fiber content of the item with the stain on it.                                                       

For white, bleachable items (always avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather and spandex) apply Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel to the stained area right before laundering, and then wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular- Bleach.  Air dry the item and check for success.  If any stain remains, repeat the treatment.  You want to avoid tumble drying in a hot dryer until you know the stain is all the way out.  This is important to avoid heat setting any residual stain so you can’t get it all the way out with a second treatment.

For colored items (or white items that include a small amount of spandex, for example), apply Liquid Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster directly to the stain and rub in.  Wait 3-5 minutes, and then wash in warmest water recommended using detergent and more Clorox 2®.  Air dry and check for success, and if necessary repeat the treatment.

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Mold on Patio Cushions

Q: How do I get mold out of outdoor patio cushions?

A: There are different treatment options depending on the type of fabric the cushions are made of (polyester, cotton, etc.) and brand. If they are made by Sunbrella®, there is great cleaning information on their website, which you can check out at http://www.sunbrella.com/cleaning/upholstery.php. Note that for general mildew removal on machine launderable textiles, we recommend a solution of ¼ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of water.  Items should be fully submerged for 5 minutes, and then rinsed before finishing up with a hot water wash using detergent + 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Sunbrella® recommends a more concentrated bleach solution for mildew removal, which actually matches our recommendation for mildew removal on exterior surfaces like vinyl siding.  Since Sunbrella® fabrics are 100% polyester (which has a high resistance to bleach) this makes sense. 

For non-Sunbrella® fabrics, as long as they are 100% polyester the same solution should still be suitable; I would just test a hidden part of the cushion first to be sure the fabric won't be damaged by a bleach solution.  To do that, apply add 2 teaspoons Clorox® Regular-Bleach to ¼ cup water and apply a drop of the solution to a hidden part of the cushion.  Make sure the drop soaks into the fabric.  Wait 1 minute and then blot dry.  No color change means the cushions can be safely bleached.

Has anyone else discovered mold on their outdoor furniture?  The warmer spring weather is finally letting us use our backyards and patios!

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Smelly Beach Towel

Q:  I have a beach towel and no matter how many time I wash it, the first time I get it wet, it stinks like mildew.   How can I get rid of the smell?

A:  Smelly towels usually indicate that there is soil build-up inside the inner workings of your clothes washer that harbors odor-causing bacteria.  The odors transfer from the washer to your laundry, and it is particularly noticeable on towels once they get wet.  Here are some tips that should help with the problem:


  1. Clean out your washer.  Run an empty washer through a clean-out cycle with hot water and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach (or fill dispenser to the “max fill” line).  Select the extra rinse option if your machine offers this; otherwise run an extra rinse cycle when the first cycle is complete.  Depending on how bad the build-up is, it might take running several clean-out cycles with bleach to fully clean the washer.  To keep the problem from coming back, run a clean out cycle with bleach once a month.  Washing at least one white load with bleach per week will also help.

  2. Check your towels for bleach colorfastness.  Some colored towels can be safely bleached.  To find out if yours can, perform a quick bleachability test:  add 2 teaspoons Clorox® Regular-Bleach to ¼ cup water; apply a small drop to a hidden part of the towel, such as under the care label; wait 1 minute then rinse and blot dry; no color change means you can safely bleach the towel.  If your towels pass, wash them with detergent and 3/4 cup bleach (or fill the dispenser to the max fill line), and that should eliminate the odor causing bacteria on the towels.  You can also just add them to your white load along with your other bleachables.  Doing this on a regular basis will help keep the odor under control.

  3. Always wash towels in hot water.  The hotter the water, the better the cleaning.  This is especially important for towels that can’t be bleached!

  4. Dry towels immediately.  Any item that sits around damp is providing the optimum environment for mildew growth.  Transfer your towels to the dryer immediately following the wash cycle.  Be sure to select enough drying time so that towels dry completely, too.


This makes me realize that summer is just around the corner!  What stains or problems plague your summer items after storing them throughout the winter?

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Outdoor Grill Stain

Q:  I accidentally brushed up against the grill.  The stain appears to be a mix of grease and ash; it is very black and greasy.  Help!

A:  I would start by pretreating the stain with some liquid dishwashing detergent – this will help solubilize the grease, breaking it up for easier removal.  A good liquid laundry detergent will also work well.  Apply a little detergent, rub it into the stain, wait 10 minutes and then rinse the stain in warm water.  How you proceed next depends on the item.

If the item is white and bleachable (avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex) then apply Clorox® Bleach Pen® Gel directly to the remaining stain and rub in.  Wash the item immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Air dry the item and check for success. Hopefully the stain will be gone, but if a little remains you can repeat the treatment with a decent chance of eventual success, if the item is kept out of a hot dryer.

If the item is colored, then pretreat the remaining stain with liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster.  Apply a little to the stain, rub in, and wait 5-10 minutes (but don't let it dry on the fabric) and then wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and more Clorox2®.  Again, be sure to air dry the item, check for success and repeat the treatment if necessary.

With the warmer weather, does anyone else have some outdoor spring stains?

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Cake Icing Stain

Q:  How do I remove colored cake icing?

A:  With all those spring babies, I have a feeling this stain will become more and more popular in the months ahead!  And here’s how to tackle it…

Frosting usually contains butter or shortening, or some mixture of the two; and so you do NOT want to rinse the stain first before treating it.  Instead, start by gently scraping away as much stain as you can (plastic knives work well for this) to minimize the amount of stain you need to actually treat.  Next, pretreat with liquid dishwashing detergent—a good liquid laundry detergent will also work well—to solubilize (break down) the concentrated butter/oil.  To do his, apply a little directly to the stain and rub in.  Wait 3-5 minutes and then rinse in warm water. 

Now you can launder the item.  For white, bleachable items (always avoid bleaching wool, silk, mohair, leather, and spandex) wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using your favorite detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  For colored items, wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster.  Allow the item to air dry and then check for success.  This is important because residual oily stains can be hidden on a wet or damp item, and you’ll want to keep it out of a hot dryer to avoid heat setting a stubborn stain that might otherwise come out with a second treatment. 

Are there any other birthday related stains that plague people’s laundry?  I’d love to hear about them!

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Dirt Stained Soccer Uniform

Q:  My son's white 100 percent polyester soccer uniform is dirt-stained.  How can I safely bleach it?

A:  I have good news for you: polyester fibers can be safely bleached with Clorox® Regular-Bleach.  Chances are the shirt also has a player number and maybe even a name.  If those components are screen prints, then they should also be bleachable.  If they are sewn on, then as long as the shirt’s care label says “100 % polyester” and not “100% polyester exclusive of trim” then the shirt should still be bleachable and you can proceed as follows:


  • Start by rinsing away loose soil and ground-in dirt. 

  • If the shirt is really dirty, then you could use a bleach soaking solution to really jump start cleaning.  For this, use ¼ cup bleach per gallon of water and fully submerge the shirt for 5 minutes. 

  • Drain the soaking solution and then wash the shirt in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent + ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. 

  • If you have localized dirt stains, you could skip the bleach soak and instead pretreat the stains directly using Clorox® Bleach Pen Gel—rub a little of the gel into the stains and then immediately wash the shirt using detergent + ¾ bleach. 


Whatever you do, though, never apply bleach full strength to the shirt or any fabric!

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Sunscreen & Polyester

Q:  Will bleach remove sunscreen stains from polyester?

A: I would like to break this question into two:  can you use bleach on polyester, and what's the best way to remove a sunscreen stain.  Polyester fibers can be safely bleached, and usually colored polyester has the colorant applied before the fibers are spun so both colored and white polyester is bleachable. One thing to note:  check the care label to make sure your polyester item does not contain spandex, since this fiber shouldn't be bleached.  In that case, you will need to use Clorox2® plus detergent. 

Regarding the stain, sunscreen has an oily component, and polyester fibers are hydrophobic (meaning water repellant), so they will naturally hold onto the oil.  Breaking up the oily component is the most effective way to remove the stain, and liquid dishwashing detergent is actually one of the best tools to get this process started.  Use it as a pre-treater: apply a little directly to the stain, wait 5 minutes, and then wash in the hottest water recommended on the item's care label using detergent + 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach (to help remove the now less-hydrophobic stain).  Be sure to air dry the item and check for success--a wet or damp garment often hides incomplete removal of an oil based stain, so keeping it out of the dryer is important to avoid heat setting any residual stain.

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Dandelion Stains

Q:  How do I get dandelion stains out of a knit top?

A: I don’t have a lot of experience with dandelion stains, so I went out to the front yard and picked a few.  I am assuming you’d like help with stains from the yellow flower petals—they certainly make colorful stains!  Fortunately they are a lot like grass stains, and I found that the following is effective to remove them:


  1. Presoak the stained area with a good detergent (that contains enzymes) and warm water for 30 minutes.

  2. Rinse away the soaking solution—you’ll still see yellow staining, and now it’s time for bleach.

  3. If your stained item is white, then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label with detergent plus ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

  4. If your stained item is colored, pre-treat the remaining stain directly with liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster.  Wait 3-5 minutes then wash in the warmest water recommended on the care label with detergent plus more Clorox2®.  By pre-treating the stain, you get maximum power from the oxygen bleach in Clorox2®.  Note that because it is a gentler bleach, it’s good to air dry the top and check to make sure all the stain is out. You can repeat this step if any stain remains.


Readers – do you have experience with dandelion stains?  How do you go about removing those vibrant stains?

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Sunscreen Stain Removal

Q: How can I remove sunscreen stains from shirts?

A: For sunscreen stains, it's best to treat the greasy portion first, so don’t apply any water to the shirt.  Instead, blot up any excess with a paper towel or cloth, and try not to rub hard to avoid pushing it further into the fabric.  Next, pre-treat using a good liquid laundry or dishwashing detergent--rub it into the stain and wait 5-10 minutes.

Now, for white items:


  1. Wash immediately in hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach.

  2. Air dry and inspect the item.  If any stain remains, repeat the steps before tumble drying the item.


Or, for colored items:

  1. Apply Liquid Clorox 2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster, rub it into the stain and wait 3-5 minutes.  Wash in the warmest water recommended using detergent and more Clorox 2®.

  2. Air dry and then inspect the item.  If any stain remains, repeat the steps before tumble drying the item.


Readers – how do you remove sunscreen stains from your clothing?

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Removing Sunscreen Stains

Q:  We have some Hawaiian Tropic® Sunscreen and it seems to stain all our whites orange when they come in contact with sweat.  Not the whole garment just around the neck or arms or sweat 'zones'.  How do I get these stains out?

A: For sunscreen stains, try pre-treating the stains with either liquid dish soap (like Dawn) or a good liquid detergent to solubilize the oils in the sunscreen—apply, rub in, and wait 3-5 minutes.   After the time is up, wash immediately in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach for white items or detergent and Clorox2® Stain Fighter & Color Booster for colored items.

I hope this is helpful!

Have any readers noticed similar sun screen stains on your clothing?

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